Who makes the best BARREL and ACTION VISES???

I make my own. A visit to the local shoe repair shop for heavy synthetic shoe sole material and a couple of 4x5 inch slabs of hardwood. Five minutes on the band saw, another five minutes on the table saw, some contact cement and a few screws and it's done.
 
I make my own. A visit to the local shoe repair shop for heavy synthetic shoe sole material and a couple of 4x5 inch slabs of hardwood. Five minutes on the band saw, another five minutes on the table saw, some contact cement and a few screws and it's done.

Brownells has a very good barrel vice and action wrench. I like the aluminum bushings and bought the assortment including several blanks that I can bore to the size I need. I looked into the casting kit but decided not to go that way. the aluminum grips good and does not mark the barrel.

I use .003 thousandth copper/brass shim stock on the actions to soften the contact surface between the action wrench and the receiver to prevent marking the action. If there is any brass/copper left on the receiver I just use bore solvent to remove it.

I have some homemade wrenches for special actions but prefer to use the Brownells when I can.

There are other brands that are probably as good, but why take a chance. when faced with a problem action (One that doesn't want to come off )good tools pay off.

Just my recommendation

J E CUSTOM
 
if you have mill and lathe, you can make 'em, B
UT Brownels stuff is hard to beat. You can make anything work, just depends on the end result you want.
 

Unless I missed it, these are adjustable wrenches and not suitable for barrel work because of the torque required to break a barrel out of an action and install a barrel with + or - 100 Ft/Lbs
of torque. in order to assemble and dissemble barrels and actions without damaging them, the tools have to fit perfectly and make up very hard.

I recommend using the tool's designed for this purpose.

J E CUSTOM
 
Thanks for the responses. I've been looking at the Brownells wrenches and vises. Good to hear they work well. .....working on a Rem 700, 98 Mauser, and a 1903 Springfield. Just for info
 
Thanks for the responses. I've been looking at the Brownells wrenches and vises. Good to hear they work well. .....working on a Rem 700, 98 Mauser, and a 1903 Springfield. Just for info


You will need a different action wrench part for the 700 than the 98 Mauser (The receiver ring is a different size) You can buy the head only for each for $40.00. the Springfield will need one to.

The wrench will fit all of them so you only have to buy one wrench for around $110.00 with one of the heads you need and then you buy the other heads separately.

http://www.brownells.com/search/index.htm?k=action+wrenches&ksubmit=y

J E CUSTOM
 
on those pesky REM 700,600 ect.. if the recoil lug is a good one i leave the old bbl. sucked up tight and tig them on. never ever have had the headache of snugging them up to crush and the the recoil lug shifting. just what I do.
 
on those pesky REM 700,600 ect.. if the recoil lug is a good one i leave the old bbl. sucked up tight and tig them on. never ever have had the headache of snugging them up to crush and the the recoil lug shifting. just what I do.



WARNING !!!!!!!!!

Please don't weld on a barrel or action, nothing good will come of it.

The correct action wrench holds the recoil lug in place while tightening so no pins or any other means of locating the lug is necessary.

Also I have never found a factory recoil lug that was perfectly flat because they are not surface
ground like the better aftermarket lugs are. If you are going to the trouble to blue print an action and re barrel it, a $40.00 dollar replacement lug is a very good investment.

Again: Please don't weld on the action it will screw up the heat treatment in the worst possible
place The receiver ring and the recoil lug area. Also most barrels should not be welded on because of there Metallurgy and heat treat.

Just a word of advice

J E CUSTOM
 
WARNING !!!!!!!!!

Please don't weld on a barrel or action, nothing good will come of it.

The correct action wrench holds the recoil lug in place while tightening so no pins or any other means of locating the lug is necessary.

Also I have never found a factory recoil lug that was perfectly flat because they are not surface
ground like the better aftermarket lugs are. If you are going to the trouble to blue print an action and re barrel it, a $40.00 dollar replacement lug is a very good investment.

Again: Please don't weld on the action it will screw up the heat treatment in the worst possible
place The receiver ring and the recoil lug area. Also most barrels should not be welded on because of there Metallurgy and heat treat.

Just a word of advice

J E CUSTOM

You Sir is a very patient and wise man to give such an advice!
 

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on those pesky REM 700,600 ect.. if the recoil lug is a good one i leave the old bbl. sucked up tight and tig them on. never ever have had the headache of snugging them up to crush and the the recoil lug shifting. just what I do.
There are much better ways to aline the lug, other than tig welding. The Klienhorst jig comes to mind, if that feature isn't built into your action wrench. I see no reason to pin unless the action is a BR "glue in". Factory Rem recoil lugs are far from uniform, that's why they're surface ground or replaced when the action is rebarreled. In general there's a .001" difference in measurement around the "barrel seat" of the lug, some more ( I've seen .0015+ to as little as .0005") some a bit less.
 
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