What is this a scar/fissure/tooling mark in my barrel?

JE is right it was probably caused when it was drilled and then after reaming the tool mark was to deep to be removed. A button will not " iron" out imprections if there there before the button process they will be there after.
 
Any other cartridge with that kind of gouge in it would shoot 8" groups at 50 yards. Since it is chambered in 6.5 Creed, the Creed has overcome the short comings of your barrel and shoots 1/2 MOA.

Sorry, I couldn't resist facetiously saying what some people will come on here and proclaim people think.

Shoot the thing until it wont shoot anymore and then rebarrel it, but that probably will be a while.

Well ya know, 6.5CR barrel rifling is created with unicorn horns for supreme accuracy, lol.

This rifle will continue to be a work in progress, and I am planning on putting a lot of rounds down range with this thing, so a new barrel will come eventually. Working up some ELDM loads as we speak.

It is a drill/tool mark that the reamer or buttoned process did/could not remove. It was caused by a chip or some other foreign object getting under the boring drill.

Or it was caused by a pilot for something (Like a bore siter for scope mounting) being inserted in the muzzle causing damage. (It does happen).

It is not your fault and if it shoots OK, don't worry about it.

J E CUSTOM

Never used a bore sighter on this one. I'm betting some irregularity before rifling was done or when the barrel was threaded.

It could be an artifact from prior to rifling, are the barrels gun drilled from 1 side, was there a stop start ? The rifling button may mash it down but material has springback. If it worries you, you could cut the barrel shorter and remove the affected part. In my opinion, buying a quality aftermarket barrel is much better money spent than doing anything to a factory barrel.

I agree. If it keeps shooting consistently, I will shoot this one out and buy a custom barrel for it. That was the plan before all this! I just wanted to see what Savage had to say about it. No response yet.
 
Very good advice has been given here. Over the past 65+ years I have been shooting, I have worried about four things, does the action perform smoothly and dependably, is the weapon a perfect fit for me and does it hit what I am aiming at. I echo the more experienced and technically oriented comments, so long as it hits what you are aiming at, shoot and enjoy without worry.
 
Any other cartridge with that kind of gouge in it would shoot 8" groups at 50 yards. Since it is chambered in 6.5 Creed, the Creed has overcome the short comings of your barrel and shoots 1/2 MOA.

Sorry, I couldn't resist facetiously saying what some people will come on here and proclaim people think.

Shoot the thing until it wont shoot anymore and then rebarrel it, but that probably will be a while.

It was probably cracked but the 6.5 inCredible Magikal healed it. ;)
 
There are several rifle makers here in the USA who have begun making barrels less expensive by cutting out several of the processes done in the past and currently still being done by the premium barrel makers. Since yours is shooting at expectations I would be very pleased. Watch in the future for your less expensive factory barrels to become less accurate. Have a friend who is custom barrel maker. He was contacted by a rifle manufacture and asked to give a quote for the companies OEM spec barrel. The spec did not call for 416R steel, did not spec stress relieving before drilling. The barrels were to be drilled to "bore" diameter, not under sized and reamed to bore diameter. No stress relieving after drilling. No pre lapping. Buttoning with no post lapping. No stress relieving before or after contouring. Finished barrels were not to exceed $39.00. The rifle manufacture seeking this quote advertises 1. " moa accuracy in all of their rifles. This manufacture was not Savage. I have examined several thousand Savages over the years. They may have some tool Mark's but by in large they shoot well.
Nat Lambeth
 
i read a post on a forum once (maybe this one) that said something to the effect that if you wanted to sleep at night, never use a bore scope on your rifles. if it shoots, i'd try to forget i found it and just shoot it.

A couple years ago I got a Lyman bore scope and proceeded to check my rifle barrels.
A barrel on a Ruger American Predator in .204R appears to be flawless, but it is lucky
to get MOA with any of several different loads.

Three Savage VLP's checked make the photos here appear very prestine. Several
places in each reveal that material was left in the barrel prior to the button being
pulled through. However, they have ALL shot groups less than 1/2 MOA.
 
I agree with the above comments of just enjoy it if it shoots to you liking. I have owned and built guns for many years and seen some crazy rough barrels that shot very well. One example was a 220 Swift I had that shot extremely well. After shooting it for some years I noticed it had a section of rifling missing. Who new!! It wasn't terrible with fowling either. I hope you enjoy the heck out of it and need a new barrel because you shot the daylights out of it.
 
Hi all.
Looking down my barrel with a new bore light last night, I noticed this abnormality just inside the muzzle of the barrel and about had a heart attack. It's on the top of the bore and crosses some of the rifling in a different direction. I had only eyed down the bore looking at a window before, so this was the first time I had seen it in such detail with the bore light. Could this be damaged from where they threaded the barrel? View attachment 123299 View attachment 123300 View attachment 123301
View attachment 123302
The rifle is a Savage 110 Predator, 6.5CR, 1/8 twist. Bought it new back in October. Has 206 rounds of mostly 147gn ELDM through it. It is wearing a Surefire Procomp brake. Rifle shoots 1/2 MOA with ease.

I sent the pics to Savage and waiting to hear back from them on the issue, Just wanted to see what y'all think.

Thanks.
I'm building an AR-10 in 6.5 CM, I completed the job but was the rifle heavy at 14 pounds. I started looking for a replaced barrel to lighten the weight 2/3 pounds but most steel barrels are about the same weight...carbon fiber barrel purchase and installed. A day at the range revealed that this is one accurate barrel-like quarter inch groups with factory ammunition but upon inspecting the cases marks on the shoulder and neck areas. I notified the barrel company and they said if you can live with it do so if not, we will replace the barrel. I'll live with it! The barrel reduced the weight by three pounds to 11 pounds total and this type of accuracy plus I was given a veterans discount. Don't cry! If it shoots and is accurate!?
 
I'm building an AR-10 in 6.5 CM, I completed the job but was the rifle heavy at 14 pounds. I started looking for a replaced barrel to lighten the weight 2/3 pounds but most steel barrels are about the same weight...carbon fiber barrel purchase and installed. A day at the range revealed that this is one accurate barrel-like quarter inch groups with factory ammunition but upon inspecting the cases marks on the shoulder and neck areas. I notified the barrel company and they said if you can live with it do so if not, we will replace the barrel. I'll live with it! The barrel reduced the weight by three pounds to 11 pounds total and this type of accuracy plus I was given a veterans discount. Don't cry! If it shoots and is accurate!?

I've never had a custom barrel, but know the tolerances are super tight, especially in the chamber/throat area. I actually read where one guy had one that was too short to even chamber factory ammo at SAAMI specs, which is typically shorter than reloads, and was shoving the bullet down into the case creating dangerous pressure levels.

I wonder how it would do with fire-formed reloads?
 
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