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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Very strange problem with my brass.
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<blockquote data-quote="Alibiiv" data-source="post: 1754901" data-attributes="member: 69192"><p>First and foremost there's nothing wrong with Hornady brass. I use it all of the time for my .358 Winchester and the Whelen, never an issue whatsoever. I have also used Hornady brass for 35 Remington reloads, and again no issues. Just curious if you are crimping or not, could not really tell form your post? If you are crimping I would like to suggest getting a Lee Factory Crimp die. I bought one for my 45-70, could not believe I have been reloading this long without using one; makes great, no-nonsense crimps and for $20. I am just curious if you measured "wall" thickness of the necks? Did you anneal the brass prior to doing all of the neck work on the brass? I use a salt bath annealer, for some it's controversial, but I cannot afford a $700+ piece of equipment to anneal; and, it is working for me. I use a Sinclair mandrel neck sizing tool on all of my brass, I've found that it gives uniform seating pressure and limits runout for me; and it eliminates the donut.</p><p></p><p>My other suggestions would be (if time allows) to purchase another batch of brass and start from there, perhaps you got a bad batch, take another rifle if that's an option, or purchase some factory ammo to hunt the season with. When I go on a hunt I always try to have some factory ammunition along, just in case I have a problem with my reloads. .358 Winchesters and 35 Whelens are not on your everyday shopping shelves in most/any gun shops; I've got Fusions for the Whelen and Hornady for the .358 Winchester.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Alibiiv, post: 1754901, member: 69192"] First and foremost there's nothing wrong with Hornady brass. I use it all of the time for my .358 Winchester and the Whelen, never an issue whatsoever. I have also used Hornady brass for 35 Remington reloads, and again no issues. Just curious if you are crimping or not, could not really tell form your post? If you are crimping I would like to suggest getting a Lee Factory Crimp die. I bought one for my 45-70, could not believe I have been reloading this long without using one; makes great, no-nonsense crimps and for $20. I am just curious if you measured "wall" thickness of the necks? Did you anneal the brass prior to doing all of the neck work on the brass? I use a salt bath annealer, for some it's controversial, but I cannot afford a $700+ piece of equipment to anneal; and, it is working for me. I use a Sinclair mandrel neck sizing tool on all of my brass, I've found that it gives uniform seating pressure and limits runout for me; and it eliminates the donut. My other suggestions would be (if time allows) to purchase another batch of brass and start from there, perhaps you got a bad batch, take another rifle if that's an option, or purchase some factory ammo to hunt the season with. When I go on a hunt I always try to have some factory ammunition along, just in case I have a problem with my reloads. .358 Winchesters and 35 Whelens are not on your everyday shopping shelves in most/any gun shops; I've got Fusions for the Whelen and Hornady for the .358 Winchester. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Very strange problem with my brass.
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