Tuning Broadheads

Discussion in 'Crossbow Hunting (Not PSE)' started by Charles B, Sep 17, 2011.

  1. Charles B

    Charles B Well-Known Member

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    I'm shootng Parker Red Hot arrows tipped with Muzzy MX-3 broadheads and would like to tune the blades to the vanes. Is it safe to heat the insert and turn the broadheads? What is your preffered method?

    Thanks to all and especially cattrapper over at Crossbow Nation for the tip about using O rings.
     
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2011
  2. moosekiller99

    moosekiller99 Active Member

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    Just using the O rings should give you enough rotation. I use heat on aluminum shafts but I'm wary of putting the torch to carbon.
     

  3. jon.henry755

    jon.henry755 Well-Known Member

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    Carbon arrows are never made to accept any type of heat, so unless you're prepared to ruin a few good arrows forget the idea of heating carbon shafts.

    Aluminum shafts can safely be heated and that's why Hot Ferrule Cement made by companies like Easton or Bohning have been used for years with aluminum arrows. Carbon shafts generally bond the inserts with a good standard set Epoxy Cement. This is so the inserts are not able to be removed or rotated.

    Rotation is always achieved by using rubberized o-ring style washers. They are sold by the bag and are very cheap. With a crossbow you'll find that tuning your broadheads is slightly different than with a compound bow. Aligning your broadheads with your vanes is only the starting point. You'll need to continue adjusting the broadhead to different clock positions until you find the one that flies the straightest at both long and short distances.

    I typically start at 20 yards and continue rotating my broadhead from the 12:00 position, then the 1:00 position, ten 2:00 and so on until I find which position my arrows have no right or left movement. Once I have it dead on target at 20 yards, I move back to 40 yards and perform the same test. Once good at 40 yards, I move to 60 and then 80 yards.

    Yes, I'm shooting a TAC15i and each time I change to a different broadhead the tuning process starts all over from the beginning.

    This is not the case with mechanical heads. A good mechanical head requires no tuning and should shoot exactly like a field point of equal weight. For any type of very long distance hunting shots its very important to weigh each arrow and weigh each broadhead to match you heads to balance out slight weight differences between your broadheads. I also use three different weight broadhead washers that are available from Bowhunters or other archery shops.
    One is a synthetic washer, one is an aluminum washer and the last is a steel washer. Each of these washers weigh a slightly different amount when weighed on a grain scale. By using different combinations you can balance all your arrows to weigh the same. Always start with your heaviest shaft first and add the least amount of weight as possible. You can always add weight to a shaft, but you can't reduce the weight, so that's why you begin with your heaviest and bring all others to this weight.

    Regards,

    Jon Henry
     
  4. Charles B

    Charles B Well-Known Member

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    Thanks Jon. I'm using the neoprene O rings with standard broad heads and getting good accuracy. Good is not excellent, but you've headed me in the wright direction.
     
  5. Ridgerunner665

    Ridgerunner665 Well-Known Member

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    I'm using the same arrows, but with the Crosspro 100FX heads (aka TruFire T1)...

    The inserts can be turned...no heat, nothing...just turn them...they're not loose by any means but they will turn.

    Heres one that got away from me (used the 20 crosshair on a 40 yard target :D )...hit that cinder block at 290 fps.

    The impact ejected the insert and the nock....did not split the arrow and didn't break any blades.

    Those are tough arrows and heads...

    [​IMG]