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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Trueing the action?
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<blockquote data-quote="Fiftydriver" data-source="post: 59753" data-attributes="member: 10"><p>Auburn Tiger,</p><p></p><p>There are varying degrees that many gunsmiths call blue-printing. Some offer little to no additional consistancy at all, others make extreme differences.</p><p></p><p>Here is my Rem 700 accurizing process.</p><p></p><p>Step one is to set the receiver up in a blue-printing jig. THis jig has front and rear bolts that are used to perfectly zero the receiver along the axis of the bolt way, NOT THE RECEIVER THREADS as they are always out of alignment.</p><p></p><p>This is done by fitting a precision ground mandrel that rides in two properly sized bushings that are positioned in the front and rear bolt way baring surfaces. These bushings come in various sizes to match to the receiver bolt way diameters. Once in place the mandrel is inserted into the receiver and supported by these cylindrical bushings.</p><p></p><p>The mandrel extends roughly 6" out from the front of the receiver face. Two 0.001" dial indicators are used to rough in the alignment of the receiver. One is positioned right at the receiver face area of the mandrel and the other is located 6" out on the tip of the mandrel.</p><p></p><p>The two sets of adjustment bolts, one on the front of the receiver and one on the rear, are used to bring the receiver into less then 0.001" concentricity.</p><p></p><p>Then two 0.0001" indicators are positioned and the receiver is adjusted into perfect alignment with the axis of the bolt way. I adjust until the needle on the indicators does not move as the receiver is turned in the lathe chuck. </p><p></p><p>With a receiver zeroed in this fashion, we know that it is in perfect alignment and that there is no conal run out in the receiver. This is the dramatic benefit of the multi point zeroing process.</p><p></p><p>Once the receiver is zeroed in this manor, the receiver threads are recut in perfect alignment with the axis of the bolt way. This assures that the bolt will be in perfect alignment with the bolt as well as being perfectly square to the receiver face, bolt face and bolt locking lugs and recesses.</p><p></p><p>After the threads are recut, which generally opens their diameter up to +0.010" to +0.015" over standard diameter to get them totally cleaned up, the bolt locking lug recesses are recut again perfectly square to not only the axis of the bolt but also to the freshly recut receiver threads.</p><p></p><p>Finally, the receiver face it trued with light facing cuts until it is totally free of any imperfections and it is perfectly square to the axis of the receiver as well.</p><p></p><p>If the customer is building a general big game rifle, I do not push receiver reaming or bolt sleeving unless they request it. And for rifles that the customer wants as much accuracy and consistancy as possible but still have a smooth working bolt, I recommend only installing a rear sleeve to the bolt. This will control rear bolt slop and there will be no bolt drop when the striker is released as the gap between the bolt and the receiver has been taken up by the rear bolt sleeve.</p><p></p><p>Also, when worked quickly the rear sleeve will not bind up as a double sleeved bolt can.</p><p></p><p>For a dedicated extreme range rifle, I recommend doing the works, reaming the bolt way and double sleeving the bolt. These rifles are not used in an excited manor though so they work smoothly.</p><p></p><p>Next comes the bolt work. First the botl is stripped and fitted with an arbor stub in the rear of the bolt. This arbor has a cone shaped end on it to allow it to slightly pivot in the lathe chuck for dialing in the bolt body for machining.</p><p></p><p>A small fixture is also fitted in the nose of the bolt which has an insert that fits the firing pin hole. The live center is then brought in and it rides in a center cut in the rear of this fixture. This prevents the live center from washing out the firing pin hole. For final critical cuts the live center rides directly in the firing pin hole.</p><p></p><p>The bolt body is then dialed in over its full length so that it is running true over its entire length.</p><p></p><p>If the bolt is to be sleeved, it is done now. Afterwhich the rear surface of the locking lugs are recut true as well as the front surface of the lugs and the front surface of the bolt face. This allow the barrel recess on the Rem 700 and liek receivers to be fitted very tightly and allow proper clearance.</p><p></p><p>Also, the bolt nose diameter is trued to a consistant diameter which again allows the bolt nose to be fitted to very quality clearance specs.</p><p></p><p>The diameter of the locking lugs can also be trued if needed at this point but this really does not effect accuracy or consistancy.</p><p></p><p>After these steps are finished, a collar is fitted to the bolt which is located around the locking lugs. This collar is then turned down perfectly concentric to the axis of the firing pin hole.</p><p></p><p>Once trued, the steady rest is used to support this collar with its three fingers. Then the tailstock can be removed and the bolt face is recut perfectly square to the axis of the bolt.</p><p></p><p>Basically the receiver and bolt at accurized at this point.</p><p></p><p>I then clean everything adn insert the bolt into the action and withthe bolt in the locked position, I take four measurements around the bolt face. THis measurement is from the bolt face to the forward surface of the recoil lug which is positioned on the receiver face.</p><p></p><p>The measurements are taken at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 on the bolt face and they will have less then 0.0001" variation if everything is performed correctly in the accurizing process. If they have a variation larger then this, it is determined which dimension is out of and corrected before the rifle building process is started.</p><p></p><p>Also, after the receiver is proven true from these measurements, the bolt lugs are lapped in, startign with 600 grit lapping compound and then final lapped with 800 grit compound for a mirror smooth finish.</p><p></p><p>Most gunsmiths say they accurize actions but to be honest very few do it correctly. From reading Keggs post, he does it correctly as well.</p><p></p><p>I charge $175 to true the receiver with another $100 to ream and doubel sleeve the bolt. </p><p></p><p>This is right in there with most smiths that do this proceedure so I woudl say the price for completely truing a receiver should be in the $250 to $350 range depending on the area you are in.</p><p></p><p>Weatherby receivers are also easily trued inthis manor and respond very well to it. The only problem with them is that the multi lug design makes it nearly impossoble to recut the locking lug surfaces or the receiver recesses. Everything else can be performed for similar prices.</p><p></p><p>Good Shooting!!!</p><p></p><p>Kirby Allen(50)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Fiftydriver, post: 59753, member: 10"] Auburn Tiger, There are varying degrees that many gunsmiths call blue-printing. Some offer little to no additional consistancy at all, others make extreme differences. Here is my Rem 700 accurizing process. Step one is to set the receiver up in a blue-printing jig. THis jig has front and rear bolts that are used to perfectly zero the receiver along the axis of the bolt way, NOT THE RECEIVER THREADS as they are always out of alignment. This is done by fitting a precision ground mandrel that rides in two properly sized bushings that are positioned in the front and rear bolt way baring surfaces. These bushings come in various sizes to match to the receiver bolt way diameters. Once in place the mandrel is inserted into the receiver and supported by these cylindrical bushings. The mandrel extends roughly 6" out from the front of the receiver face. Two 0.001" dial indicators are used to rough in the alignment of the receiver. One is positioned right at the receiver face area of the mandrel and the other is located 6" out on the tip of the mandrel. The two sets of adjustment bolts, one on the front of the receiver and one on the rear, are used to bring the receiver into less then 0.001" concentricity. Then two 0.0001" indicators are positioned and the receiver is adjusted into perfect alignment with the axis of the bolt way. I adjust until the needle on the indicators does not move as the receiver is turned in the lathe chuck. With a receiver zeroed in this fashion, we know that it is in perfect alignment and that there is no conal run out in the receiver. This is the dramatic benefit of the multi point zeroing process. Once the receiver is zeroed in this manor, the receiver threads are recut in perfect alignment with the axis of the bolt way. This assures that the bolt will be in perfect alignment with the bolt as well as being perfectly square to the receiver face, bolt face and bolt locking lugs and recesses. After the threads are recut, which generally opens their diameter up to +0.010" to +0.015" over standard diameter to get them totally cleaned up, the bolt locking lug recesses are recut again perfectly square to not only the axis of the bolt but also to the freshly recut receiver threads. Finally, the receiver face it trued with light facing cuts until it is totally free of any imperfections and it is perfectly square to the axis of the receiver as well. If the customer is building a general big game rifle, I do not push receiver reaming or bolt sleeving unless they request it. And for rifles that the customer wants as much accuracy and consistancy as possible but still have a smooth working bolt, I recommend only installing a rear sleeve to the bolt. This will control rear bolt slop and there will be no bolt drop when the striker is released as the gap between the bolt and the receiver has been taken up by the rear bolt sleeve. Also, when worked quickly the rear sleeve will not bind up as a double sleeved bolt can. For a dedicated extreme range rifle, I recommend doing the works, reaming the bolt way and double sleeving the bolt. These rifles are not used in an excited manor though so they work smoothly. Next comes the bolt work. First the botl is stripped and fitted with an arbor stub in the rear of the bolt. This arbor has a cone shaped end on it to allow it to slightly pivot in the lathe chuck for dialing in the bolt body for machining. A small fixture is also fitted in the nose of the bolt which has an insert that fits the firing pin hole. The live center is then brought in and it rides in a center cut in the rear of this fixture. This prevents the live center from washing out the firing pin hole. For final critical cuts the live center rides directly in the firing pin hole. The bolt body is then dialed in over its full length so that it is running true over its entire length. If the bolt is to be sleeved, it is done now. Afterwhich the rear surface of the locking lugs are recut true as well as the front surface of the lugs and the front surface of the bolt face. This allow the barrel recess on the Rem 700 and liek receivers to be fitted very tightly and allow proper clearance. Also, the bolt nose diameter is trued to a consistant diameter which again allows the bolt nose to be fitted to very quality clearance specs. The diameter of the locking lugs can also be trued if needed at this point but this really does not effect accuracy or consistancy. After these steps are finished, a collar is fitted to the bolt which is located around the locking lugs. This collar is then turned down perfectly concentric to the axis of the firing pin hole. Once trued, the steady rest is used to support this collar with its three fingers. Then the tailstock can be removed and the bolt face is recut perfectly square to the axis of the bolt. Basically the receiver and bolt at accurized at this point. I then clean everything adn insert the bolt into the action and withthe bolt in the locked position, I take four measurements around the bolt face. THis measurement is from the bolt face to the forward surface of the recoil lug which is positioned on the receiver face. The measurements are taken at 12:00, 3:00, 6:00 and 9:00 on the bolt face and they will have less then 0.0001" variation if everything is performed correctly in the accurizing process. If they have a variation larger then this, it is determined which dimension is out of and corrected before the rifle building process is started. Also, after the receiver is proven true from these measurements, the bolt lugs are lapped in, startign with 600 grit lapping compound and then final lapped with 800 grit compound for a mirror smooth finish. Most gunsmiths say they accurize actions but to be honest very few do it correctly. From reading Keggs post, he does it correctly as well. I charge $175 to true the receiver with another $100 to ream and doubel sleeve the bolt. This is right in there with most smiths that do this proceedure so I woudl say the price for completely truing a receiver should be in the $250 to $350 range depending on the area you are in. Weatherby receivers are also easily trued inthis manor and respond very well to it. The only problem with them is that the multi lug design makes it nearly impossoble to recut the locking lug surfaces or the receiver recesses. Everything else can be performed for similar prices. Good Shooting!!! Kirby Allen(50) [/QUOTE]
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