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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
trigger question?
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<blockquote data-quote="Hired Gun" data-source="post: 101705" data-attributes="member: 1290"><p>There is no need to touch the other two if you don't want to. Some people like a trigger that has almost no movement. The over travel controls that. The engagement is the amount of sear engagement. If it doesn't creep then what more could you want? The factory would rather you only played with the tension anyway. The only drawback to backing off the tension is it may not fully engage the sear and then you get the famous Remington inconsistent trigger. Might be 2 ponds one try and 2 ounces the next or if light enough it may not even cock or might fire when the bolt goes down. A trigger scale will give you an idea how low it will go consistently. In my experience a factory Remington trigger just twisting the screws is only able to get between 2.5 to 3 pounds. Believe it or not I can "adjust" the Rugers easier and more predictably with the factory components.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Hired Gun, post: 101705, member: 1290"] There is no need to touch the other two if you don't want to. Some people like a trigger that has almost no movement. The over travel controls that. The engagement is the amount of sear engagement. If it doesn't creep then what more could you want? The factory would rather you only played with the tension anyway. The only drawback to backing off the tension is it may not fully engage the sear and then you get the famous Remington inconsistent trigger. Might be 2 ponds one try and 2 ounces the next or if light enough it may not even cock or might fire when the bolt goes down. A trigger scale will give you an idea how low it will go consistently. In my experience a factory Remington trigger just twisting the screws is only able to get between 2.5 to 3 pounds. Believe it or not I can “adjust” the Rugers easier and more predictably with the factory components. [/QUOTE]
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trigger question?
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