trigger question?

remingtonman_25_06

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Joined
Jun 4, 2003
Messages
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Location
Hermiston, Oregon
I gotta question. I cant seem to back out the engagement screw. I got the over travel and spring tension to come loose. My question is this, when I leave the over travel alone, the way it came, and I back out the spring tension a couple turns, my trigger is pretty light. Can this be a substitute for doing all the other things. Or do I really need to play with the engagement and over travel? Once again, I cant break the engagement screw loose, but I was just experimenting and when I turned the spring tension screw out a little, I noticed my trigger pull was reduced dramatically. Was wondering if this would be OK.
 
rem 25_06,is this a Rem? Ive had the same problem on a couple of Rems.Sometimes I think they screw up the threads on purpose once its set from the factory.At least thats what it seemed to me.
 
Yes this is a rem trigger. Like I said, I can back out the tension screw which seems to be what you need to set the #, and when I slam the bolt, the pin does not drop, I backed it out a couple turns and it seems to be around 2lbs, I'm still playing with it right now. Just trying to get a definate answer from someone who knows more about it then me. I want it down to about 2lbs safely, just wondering if I really need to mess with the other 2 screws?
 
There is no need to touch the other two if you don't want to. Some people like a trigger that has almost no movement. The over travel controls that. The engagement is the amount of sear engagement. If it doesn't creep then what more could you want? The factory would rather you only played with the tension anyway. The only drawback to backing off the tension is it may not fully engage the sear and then you get the famous Remington inconsistent trigger. Might be 2 ponds one try and 2 ounces the next or if light enough it may not even cock or might fire when the bolt goes down. A trigger scale will give you an idea how low it will go consistently. In my experience a factory Remington trigger just twisting the screws is only able to get between 2.5 to 3 pounds. Believe it or not I can "adjust" the Rugers easier and more predictably with the factory components.
 
best bet to get a consistant 2-3lb trigger is to buy the holland spring kit (about $15)and use that , the kit says it will bring the trigger down to 1.5-2lbs but I have found that the lighter spring set a little heavier will give alot mor consistant pull
also , I break my triggers down and polish the engagments to a mirror finish then use a good light grease , with the internal stoning and the holland spring I can get the factory trigger down to 1.5lb and it won't vary more than a couple oz
Rifle basics makes some good triggers for around $100 and thats money well spent if you don't want the do alot of tedius work or you want a SAFE trigger lighter than a pound or so
 
Re: Holland trigger spring

Hi JDJones:
Do you have to take the trigger off the action or take the trigger apart to install the Holland trigger spring ?
 
Re: Holland trigger spring

Don't try using the factory spring and back it off. It's been said already that will cause the sear to not engage fully. Yes! get the spring kit and as far as the trigger spring the trigger can stay on. If the kit comes with a sear spring taking the rear trigger pin out will let the trigger hinge down to install the sear spring. good luck
 
I HAVE TWO SAKOS .243 (1967VIN) AND 6PPC BOTH 1 1/2 LB PULL........ NO CREAP, CRISP, FAST, SAME EVERY TIME..... I HAVE A SHILEN TRIGER ON A REM 700, 1.25LB, NO CREAP, FAST,SAME WEIGHT EVERY TIME; I WOULD BUY SHILEN AGAIN. I HAVE A JEWEL ON MY 700 SENDERO, VERY GOOD,SAME WEIGHT EVERY TIME 1.9 LB .... THE OTHER 700'S I HAVE; I ADJUSTED TO AROUND 2 TO 2.5 LB FOLLOWING THE "REM CRISP" ARTICLE BY FURUZZA........I KNOW THIS MAY NOT HELP YOU WITH YOUR PROBLEM .. I WOULD BUY A SHILEN AGAIN; I REALLY LIKE IT ~!....... RON
 
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