To Remage or not to remage

  • Thread starter Deleted member 115360
  • Start date
I shot BR for years and all use shouldered barrels. Screw on and off by hand. Perfect headspace when switching from light varmint to heavy varmint wt class.
Now I use the West Texas Ordnance switch lug system for my hunting rifles. Easy barrel swap by hand. Headspace perfect. Looks clean. Super accurate and repeatable. Having another built now. Will have a switch lug for both std and mag face bolts. Want another caliber? Just buy a barrel and have it threaded.😋
 
Have 8 different barrels with 2 Savage actions. 1 for mag calibers and one for standard. Can swap a barrel with proper headspace gauges in less than 30 minutes. All of which will shoot ragged holes at 200 yards. Quality of the barrel is what makes them shoot so well. Stick with a quality barrel and invest in a barrel wrench and have some fun. Takes longer to mount the optics than to change the barrels.


35 whelen.jpg
Savage 7mm STW.jpg
 
I use barrel nuts on all of my rifles: Savage 110, Remington 700, Ruger American, Mausingfield and a AR-15 (made the lock nut from a grade 8 nut from the local hardware store. They are all accurate, headspace says set without fail. Ugly is beautiful when it works like barrel nuts do.
 
I changed a barrel in less than 5 min once at the range just to shut a guy up, "Oh I see you have a Savage that's nice"
This was 20 some odd years ago back when Savages were considered "blue collar" I am not knocking them but they did have that stigma for a long time for those who are old enough. He had a Rem custom shop that everyone was having an orgasm over "That Daddy bought" anyway I ran out of 22-250 ammo and was switching over to my 308 barrel so I could continue shooting, And did it in less than 5 min when I finally looked up I had a crowd watching me then one guy said hey you just changed barrels in less that 5 min, I said I know I do it all the time so I did a demo back to the 22-250 and then once again to the 308, and explaind what I was doing at the same time. I stole MR custom shops thunder he was not happy, me that made my day and chuckled about it the rest of the day.

Dean

PS: Maybe it's just me, but I would never knock another guys rig I was brought up better than that.
 
Last edited:
@scope-eye - you wouldn't happen to have a 308 winchester barrel in that pile would you? ... I'm looking for a small shank 24-26" length varmint/target weight ... 10 twist and 5r is ideal but beggars can't be choosers right? :)

PM me if you have something that might work for building a 'starter' target rig for a friend ... already have the action but am needing an affordable heavy barrel that will shoot well ...


Sorry to hijack ... back on track ... to clarify - in my earlier post when I mentioned I hate the smooth barrel nuts - it isn't due to the look of them ... it is because I still cannot seem to remove them efficiently without marring the devil out of them ... so I HATE HATE HATE - double HATE them ... for that reason alone :) ... add to that "LOATHE enTIREly" for all you Grinch fans ...
 
Last edited:
Over the years, I have done a few and currently have a half-a-dozen, and if done correctly with a good barrel, I have never found any issue with accuracy. A couple of varmint calibers shoot in the .2-.3 range, the 6.5 shoots in the low .3's and very similar for the .308's.
 
Zero accuracy different shouldered to barrel nut barrel. As long as the barrel is good. Shilen criterion etc. we have run nothing BUT remage /savage prefits and never had issues getting 1/2" groups. Most time way smaller I run shouldered prefits now also for simplicity on my zermatt actions but accuracy is no better or worse. Either way is good.
 
I have a number of barrels set up with the Bugnut from Southern Precision Rifles. It is an easy way to change barrels and requires an lot less precision machining than a shouldered barrel..
 
The barrel nut is the way to go if you want to be able to change the barrel yourself and have it tightened in an acknowledged factory manner. I just did a set of four barrels, different lengths for my Boys Anti Tank Rifle in 50 BMG, and made barrel nuts for each. I know of some people that would just hand tighten the Boys barrels and use a set screw to "lock" it in place till they broke it down for transport. Not me. If you run a barrel at less than the proper torque you risk it comming loose. It may, and does work fine in certain applications, but there are reasons why barrels are torqued tight on factory guns.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 4 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.

Recent Posts

Top