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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
To Float or not to Float......
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<blockquote data-quote="James Jones" data-source="post: 194550" data-attributes="member: 8843"><p>#1) If the barrel is touching the forend tips as its supposed to from the factory and the action screws are tight then their is stress on the action at the barrel action joint , this tension will be enough to keep the screws from backing out assuming that their is enough torque on them(15-60in lbs) . It is completely possible to have and keep the action screws tight and not have the action be touching the stock , and in this case if you remove the forend pressure points then barrel will "sink" further into the stock untill the action make contact. Now the only way to preven this from happening is to FIRST glass bed the action and then remove the forend pressure points this way the action will be the only thing making contact.</p><p>#2) Not all guns shoot better with a free floated barrel , some guns typicaly those with thinner barrel liketo have some pressure on the barrel and it can vary from just barely making contact to 20lbs !! though its not nearly as common to see very accurate guns with pressure point their are some and they are generaly those whos barrels haven't been properly stress relieved.</p><p>#3) The proper way to tighten the action screws is neight with a long allen wrench or a T handle wrench ,the proper way its to use an inch pound torque wrench , on wood stocks tighten the front action screw to 15lbs then the rear , then rested the wrench and torque the front to 35lbs then the rear and last useing a little bit of fingernail polish on the threads you tighten the front trigger guard screw just tight enough to keep the guard from rattling.</p><p> </p><p>MagnumManiac , not sure how many guns you have built or had built nor do I know how many guns "top line" guns you have delt with but I can say from my personal experiance that some "top line" guns arn't bedded worth a **** if they are and some with bedding blocks arn't glass bedded and ALOT of these semi custom guns that use McMillan stock arn't bedded at all , for instance a $4000+ Robar custom I reciently had to bed because the inletting from McMillan is "supposed" to be perfect WRONG , the gun all the sudden started patterning instead of grouping , a proper bedding job fixed it. Just a heads up , the stock that come with the aluminum bedding block generaly gain a little bit when they are properly gass bedded. And as for having a qualified gunsmith give some imput about this trouble , well more than a couple already have in this thread.</p><p> </p><p>DG , hows that Sako treating you?</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="James Jones, post: 194550, member: 8843"] #1) If the barrel is touching the forend tips as its supposed to from the factory and the action screws are tight then their is stress on the action at the barrel action joint , this tension will be enough to keep the screws from backing out assuming that their is enough torque on them(15-60in lbs) . It is completely possible to have and keep the action screws tight and not have the action be touching the stock , and in this case if you remove the forend pressure points then barrel will "sink" further into the stock untill the action make contact. Now the only way to preven this from happening is to FIRST glass bed the action and then remove the forend pressure points this way the action will be the only thing making contact. #2) Not all guns shoot better with a free floated barrel , some guns typicaly those with thinner barrel liketo have some pressure on the barrel and it can vary from just barely making contact to 20lbs !! though its not nearly as common to see very accurate guns with pressure point their are some and they are generaly those whos barrels haven't been properly stress relieved. #3) The proper way to tighten the action screws is neight with a long allen wrench or a T handle wrench ,the proper way its to use an inch pound torque wrench , on wood stocks tighten the front action screw to 15lbs then the rear , then rested the wrench and torque the front to 35lbs then the rear and last useing a little bit of fingernail polish on the threads you tighten the front trigger guard screw just tight enough to keep the guard from rattling. MagnumManiac , not sure how many guns you have built or had built nor do I know how many guns "top line" guns you have delt with but I can say from my personal experiance that some "top line" guns arn't bedded worth a **** if they are and some with bedding blocks arn't glass bedded and ALOT of these semi custom guns that use McMillan stock arn't bedded at all , for instance a $4000+ Robar custom I reciently had to bed because the inletting from McMillan is "supposed" to be perfect WRONG , the gun all the sudden started patterning instead of grouping , a proper bedding job fixed it. Just a heads up , the stock that come with the aluminum bedding block generaly gain a little bit when they are properly gass bedded. And as for having a qualified gunsmith give some imput about this trouble , well more than a couple already have in this thread. DG , hows that Sako treating you? [/QUOTE]
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To Float or not to Float......
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