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The Basics, Starting Out
To Float or not to Float......
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<blockquote data-quote="Coyboy" data-source="post: 193835" data-attributes="member: 3733"><p>Word of warning on the Ruger, if you take out the lump in the forearm, thinking the barrel will float, your in for a big suprise. What happens is the whole barreled action will fit in deeper and the barrel will then contact more of the wood channel. You almost have to at least glass bed the reciever with tape wrapped around the barrel where the pressure bedding lump used to be. This will then hold the barrel off the wood during and after everything sets up.</p><p>Get your tape at least 1/8 inch thick. I heard some home smith guys put a shim under the front of the reciever to hold it up. I never tried it but seems it would be a pain in the rear over time.</p><p></p><p>The rugers I have floated barrels on responded very well with handloads developed after the work was completed.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Coyboy, post: 193835, member: 3733"] Word of warning on the Ruger, if you take out the lump in the forearm, thinking the barrel will float, your in for a big suprise. What happens is the whole barreled action will fit in deeper and the barrel will then contact more of the wood channel. You almost have to at least glass bed the reciever with tape wrapped around the barrel where the pressure bedding lump used to be. This will then hold the barrel off the wood during and after everything sets up. Get your tape at least 1/8 inch thick. I heard some home smith guys put a shim under the front of the reciever to hold it up. I never tried it but seems it would be a pain in the rear over time. The rugers I have floated barrels on responded very well with handloads developed after the work was completed. [/QUOTE]
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The Basics, Starting Out
To Float or not to Float......
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