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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Tikka short mag conundrum
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<blockquote data-quote=".300 Dakota" data-source="post: 2910809" data-attributes="member: 106514"><p>Let me restate the problem. Maybe not really a problem viewed from the outside: I got a reasonable deal on a new stainless laminate Tikka T3x (which I've wanted for some time). It was a deal online where I couldn't pick the gun up, shoulder it, etc. I bought it and had it shipped in. When it arrived, it was a beautiful rifle. And I noticed immediately it was also very lightweight. For some reason, I was expecting the laminate edition to be a little heavier than it is. Just so happens, it was chambered in 270 WSM. When I felt it, all I could think about was how much I bet it would whallop me. So I started looking for pre-fits ready to ship. I wanted to use it this year and don't have time for anything to be built. We're already hunting deer down here! I found 2, ready to ship, drop-in aftermarket pre-fits that would require no inlet work that I could install myself. 1 was also in .270 WSM but with fast twist and muzzle threads to install a break. (1:8) Problem with that was, it was only 20" long, which would negate some performance from the 24.3" factory barrel - plus it was Cerakoted black (which doesn't match). </p><p></p><p>The 2nd option was a matching bead blast finish and drop in contour, but was twisted 1:7.5 and chambered in 6.8 Western which I cannot obtain brass for. The barrel was 24" and fluted making it even lighter, and the muzzle is not threaded. I had about convinced myself to do what I originally pondered, which was shoot light bullets really fast for this season, and pick up the Western aftermarket pre-fit, and have it threaded for a brake this winter thinking there might be brass by next year at some point. I did not want to replace the stock because it was the main reason I wanted the rifle to begin with. I don't want to do anything unless it's a readily available (now) pre-fit. (And don't want to have to change bolts!) I have some 117gr Hammer Hunters sitting here, along with a plethora of other good bullets for the WSM. I also have dies. I would have to buy dies for the Western, but I've wanted to try the Western since it came out except the rifles and Winchester ammo didn't appeal to me. An aftermarket iteration has much more appeal. </p><p></p><p>To your point, If I was going to wait anyway, I could simply pick another catridge with magnum bolt face. I REALLY wanted something that would shoot .270 cal 170 grain Ballistic Tips. Either of the options I found would do that. In another thread not mentioned here, I talk about the 6.5 SAUM I am working with (already built and shooting with Gentry brake that feels like a light .22-250 load). I also have an X-Bolt Eclipse in 7-08, and it's a half inch shooter at speeds I can't publish loads for without being banned. So the deal isn't that I have to make this gun work now or I can't hunt. I have more options than any sane person ought to have. I just really like this gun and want to improve it to ensure enjoyable shooting. I don't want to pour another $1000 and pay for it twice to save a tiny bit of recoil - I started looking just to see if there was a quick fix- just see what was out there, and I found 2 very intriguing (to me) options to ponder that weren't super expensive and could be bought now and taken to the range with ammo in hand a week from now. I really just want to keep the focus on these options. Even if I fire the rifle in current factory configuration and love it, either of the available barrels offer options it doesn't currently have. The 6.8 is the least costly of the 2 because it won't require getting the action and bottom metal coated to match it nor the purchase of a brake with adapter to install. Though I would need dies. I'd like to be able to take this rifle out and kill something with it to see how I really get along with it compared to my other rifles. I'm wondering if the 7.5 twist might not be a little fast at those speeds to run lightweight bullets??</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE=".300 Dakota, post: 2910809, member: 106514"] Let me restate the problem. Maybe not really a problem viewed from the outside: I got a reasonable deal on a new stainless laminate Tikka T3x (which I've wanted for some time). It was a deal online where I couldn't pick the gun up, shoulder it, etc. I bought it and had it shipped in. When it arrived, it was a beautiful rifle. And I noticed immediately it was also very lightweight. For some reason, I was expecting the laminate edition to be a little heavier than it is. Just so happens, it was chambered in 270 WSM. When I felt it, all I could think about was how much I bet it would whallop me. So I started looking for pre-fits ready to ship. I wanted to use it this year and don't have time for anything to be built. We're already hunting deer down here! I found 2, ready to ship, drop-in aftermarket pre-fits that would require no inlet work that I could install myself. 1 was also in .270 WSM but with fast twist and muzzle threads to install a break. (1:8) Problem with that was, it was only 20" long, which would negate some performance from the 24.3" factory barrel - plus it was Cerakoted black (which doesn't match). The 2nd option was a matching bead blast finish and drop in contour, but was twisted 1:7.5 and chambered in 6.8 Western which I cannot obtain brass for. The barrel was 24" and fluted making it even lighter, and the muzzle is not threaded. I had about convinced myself to do what I originally pondered, which was shoot light bullets really fast for this season, and pick up the Western aftermarket pre-fit, and have it threaded for a brake this winter thinking there might be brass by next year at some point. I did not want to replace the stock because it was the main reason I wanted the rifle to begin with. I don't want to do anything unless it's a readily available (now) pre-fit. (And don't want to have to change bolts!) I have some 117gr Hammer Hunters sitting here, along with a plethora of other good bullets for the WSM. I also have dies. I would have to buy dies for the Western, but I've wanted to try the Western since it came out except the rifles and Winchester ammo didn't appeal to me. An aftermarket iteration has much more appeal. To your point, If I was going to wait anyway, I could simply pick another catridge with magnum bolt face. I REALLY wanted something that would shoot .270 cal 170 grain Ballistic Tips. Either of the options I found would do that. In another thread not mentioned here, I talk about the 6.5 SAUM I am working with (already built and shooting with Gentry brake that feels like a light .22-250 load). I also have an X-Bolt Eclipse in 7-08, and it's a half inch shooter at speeds I can't publish loads for without being banned. So the deal isn't that I have to make this gun work now or I can't hunt. I have more options than any sane person ought to have. I just really like this gun and want to improve it to ensure enjoyable shooting. I don't want to pour another $1000 and pay for it twice to save a tiny bit of recoil - I started looking just to see if there was a quick fix- just see what was out there, and I found 2 very intriguing (to me) options to ponder that weren't super expensive and could be bought now and taken to the range with ammo in hand a week from now. I really just want to keep the focus on these options. Even if I fire the rifle in current factory configuration and love it, either of the available barrels offer options it doesn't currently have. The 6.8 is the least costly of the 2 because it won't require getting the action and bottom metal coated to match it nor the purchase of a brake with adapter to install. Though I would need dies. I'd like to be able to take this rifle out and kill something with it to see how I really get along with it compared to my other rifles. I'm wondering if the 7.5 twist might not be a little fast at those speeds to run lightweight bullets?? [/QUOTE]
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