Tikka 270/300wsm mags same oal?

Discussion in 'Reloading' started by emmagator, Mar 21, 2012.

  1. emmagator

    emmagator Well-Known Member

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    I'm trying to find a way to load my rounds to a longer oal, while using the factory magazine. I'm currently modifying a 270wsm mag but haven't finished yet. But I had a thought, does the 300wsm have a longer oal and would it work?
     
  2. bbutturff

    bbutturff Well-Known Member

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    I believe they are the same. Not just the same OAL but the same magazine. For reference my Tikka T-3 300WSM magazine measures 2.910

    My question to you is how are you ever going to modify it enough to matter? When I make my cartridges 2.90 I'm still jumping the Sierra 180 Matchking .170 and the Nosler 180 Accubond a whopping .262! Fortunately it still shoots them sub-MOA.

    Please keep us posted. I'm interested in your results.

    Bruce
     

  3. emmagator

    emmagator Well-Known Member

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    My 270wsm measures 2.90 as well. Researching this subject,i ended up removing the whole plastic piece on the inside back of the mag. Then I will find/fabricate a replacement piece of plastic, cut it to a size that will increase bullet oal, then epoxy it into place. Then I will purchase the bolt stop that beretta sells to increase bolt travel, so the bolt will be able to chamber the longer rounds.
     
  4. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Same case trim O.A.L. of 2.100 (book recommendation trim to 2.090)
    Same C.O.A.L. "book recommendation of 2.860" for all the wsm's 270wsm, & 300wsm, & 325wsm & 7wsm.
    Model 70 Winchesters typically have a pretty long mag. I don't know what your Tikka mag is.
    I'm having a 300WSM built on a long action Model-70 specifically for even longer C.O.A.L.
    But I have a factory Model-70 in 270WSM that the C.O.A.L. runs 2.915 with 140 Accubonds .015 off the lands, & I still have plenty of room in the mag.
     
  5. emmagator

    emmagator Well-Known Member

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    Well i have a really ruff first attempt at modifying the tikka magazine. I used a piece of teflon and glued it into the magazine. I will be able to load out to 3.1". Now when i get my longer bolt stop, ill see if they chamber smooth.
     
  6. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    DIY is both agrevating, & very rewarding, depending on how things turn out. If you get a chance, post some pics. Could be educational for a lot of folks.
    Keep us informed on how it all turns out.
     
  7. emmagator

    emmagator Well-Known Member

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    Ill try and get some pics up soon. With this first attempt I just used super glue, so I'm concerned about it holding up to recoil and such. However now that I have an idea how to go about it, I'm gonna get another mag and try to make a "prettier" version. Not to much room for error though tikka factory mags aren't cheap!
     
  8. elkoholic72

    elkoholic72 Well-Known Member

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    [​IMG]

    As for getting a new bolt stop, I just grind them down. I have 4 T3s and all have been heavily modified, including the magazines and bolt stops. It has allowed me to shoot the 165 matrix in the 270wsm and the 150-162s in my wifes 7mm-08.
    Here is the wife's..

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  9. emmagator

    emmagator Well-Known Member

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    Elkoholic, what did you do about the mag follower? with the longer mag interior the follower moves around alot and might cause issues when chambering rounds. Did you lengthen it somehow or just leave it?
     
  10. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Elkoholic,
    I just sent you a p.m. about the finish on that rifle. It's gorgeous!
    I don't want to intrude on the OP's thread, so p.m. sent. Looking forward to a reply!!
     
  11. elkoholic72

    elkoholic72 Well-Known Member

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    To answer some of the questions from PMs, I only use Cerakote. I do use both types, C-series air cure and H-series heat cure. I currently have 43 colors.
    For the magazine follower, I have left one alone and machined another from a piece of plastic stock. It just depends on how far you are moving the verticle stop in the back. You want the follower to be to the rear, because it doesn't support anything in the front, except when the bolt is almost closed and the round is 60%+ chambered. The one I machined from plastic works fine, but wasn't really needed, just wanted to see if I could do it. I did read where Jason over at Tikkashooters was working on an aftermarket MAG with longer OAL, but not sure of the stauts.
    I actually like the Tikka plasti mags, as they sit flush and allow for super smooth feeding on arguably the smoothest feeding bolt action made. I do have an AICS setup that works. But it added weight and the magazine is big and square and protrudes a lot further than I like to carry.
    I have Karl Kampfeld do all my fluting. I feel he is much cheaper, especially if you send him 3-4 bolts at a time!! He has THE FASTEST turnaround time, hands down!! And he has the most options on fluting. His work has been flawless for me. The last time I sent him three Tikka bolts, I wanted two TI style spiral fluted RH, and one same but fluted LH. He had them back to me in a week for $210.
    For those asking, YES, i hate the hole in the Tikka bolt handles. I drilled out the hole on my wife's bolt knob to accept a chopped off Nosler brass. I did soak the primer in water and then oil before loading it into the brass. I have also turned down a few and threaded the inside hole to accept a stud that could then accept any aftermarket bolt knob. You can also fill them with JB Weld and sand them down smooth if you are going to paint it.
    Here are a few more pics. Thanks everyone who PMed me with compliments!!
    Ben


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    Here is an Ithica that I coated in Titanium and Titanium blue that I refinished last week. It was covered in rust and the stock was white. It was left in a field for almost 15 years!!

    P1000584.JPG
     

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