Thoughts on bore fouling and cleaning

Ackley Man

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The original thread was intended to share documented information on bore fouling and cleaning to those seeking same, however, it turned into nothing more than an unsolicited and unnecessary heated debate. Clearly this forum does not need to waste server space on such nonsense. Accordingly the original post and bore photos have been removed. For anyone seeking information concerning bore fouling and/or cleaning send a pm to any of the members listed below. They will gladly provide an opinion.

Mikecr
rscott5028
Boss Hoss
 
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Too late Mikecr. Our opinion doesn't count here. It's all been laid out for us with photos to back it up. I'll sleep better knowing that it's all been figured out for me. :D
 
I do not agree with much of what was posted above. My Bore Scope and actually testing does not support many of his opinions/conclusions especially this one--

"Can your barrel be too clean? You're kidding me – right? Nope, if a shooter uses an abrasive type cleaner too often the abrasives can be very effective at removing all traces of powder, carbon and jacket or lead fouling. The abrasives can get the barrel too clean. In effect the shooter is re-breaking in the barrel every time he cleans. This ends up in the dog chasing its tail scenario where the shooter believes his barrel is a fouler because of copper or lead accumulation in the barrel is always present so he works to remove it with more abrasive cleaner but what he does remove is the desirable layer of carbon fouling left by the powder and exposes the bare steel ready to grab lead or copper with the next shot."


I would suggest that people follow what follows as written by someone who has many skins on the wall as well as builds some of the most accurate rifles one can buy:

Bore Scope verified many times.....

Step 1. Insert Lucas bore guide into receiver and chamber. If you don't have one stop here and get one, if not, just shoot your rifle and forget trying to take any care of your barrel at all. If you do have one, proceed, and give yourself one "At-A-Boy" for being astute enough to have purchased the proper tools for the job.
Note: One "Aw-****" wipes out ALL "At-A-Boys".

Step 2. Run one wet patch of Sweets 7.62 through the bore and let soak for approximately 60 seconds. Do not patch this out.

Step 3. Next, run the brush through the barrel only enough to expose the entire brush. Yes, I know that you still have 12 more inches of cleaning rod you could push out the end of your barrel but we want to protect that new crown. Also, if that rod hangs out that far, you will eventually start wearing down the rifling at the crown from about 4 to 7 o'clock. This is very bad "JU-JU" for accuracy. OK, back to our next step. Once the brush is exposed, saturate it well with Sweets and SLOWLY run the brush through the barrel 10 (or more depending on the fouling amount) complete back and forth passes while keeping the rod as straight as possible. This is when the Lucas bore guide really pays for itself! Remember, the key word is slowly. We are not trying to break any land speed records today. Let this sit a minute or two and proceed to the next step.

Step 4. After you have let the barrel soak for a few moments, saturate a patch with Sweets and pass it through the bore if it is clean good job if not repeat 2 and 3. Follow this with 2 dry patches and then dry the chamber with Brake Cleaner. Next, gently wipe the crown off with a soft cloth and lube your bolt (do not use too much).

D. Final Cleaning Tips -

1. Each time you clean you should follow the last dry patch with a patch soaked with LOCK-EEZ. This is a graphite powder suspended in a quick evaporating carrier that coats the bore slightly before passing that first round through a completely dry bore.

2 The only product I use that really does a good job on powder fouling (will clean everything out including copper), especially on the carbon ring that forms just ahead of where the neck ends in the chamber, is IOSSO Bore Paste. This is used with an IOSSO nylon bristle brush and worked slowly in the neck and throat areas, then slowly down the entire bore for 10 to 20 strokes depending on the fouling level. Follow this up with a few wet patches, then dry the bore as usual, and you're ready to shoot. The brush will eventually turn black as you pass through the bore repeatedly and use Brake Cleaner or if you have a lot of money Gun Scrubber to clean the brush off (both for this and the Pro Shot phosphor bronze ones) then a blast down the Lucas Bore Guide followed by a patch or two to clean out any remaining IOSSO. Then a patch of Butches Bore Shine followed by 2 dry patches finally followed by a patch of LOCK-EZ.

This is a modified method of what Speedy taught me and it works because --- THE BORE SCOPE DOES NOT LIE
 
Boss Hoss,

You were very specific about the Lucas Bore Guide.

What cleaning rod do you recommend?

I use Tipton's carbon fiber rod. But, it does have a brass tip for the jag/brush to screw into.

thanks,
richard
 
He had at one time used a gel mixture by mixing to different products together------no longer he uses Butches, Sweets and Iosso..... I shoot with him and work with him in his shop (mainly watch but do a few little things) and have for many years.

The reason you want a clean tube is so you know where you are starting from period. The barrel manufacturers (I have spoken with a few of them on this subject)state what you have posted partially because most people do not have the equipment or the knowledge to clean a barrel properly and that is just a fact. It is very true that a tube can be damaged quickly and that includes the crown by improper cleaning. I do not shoot factory rifles any longer and have a bore scope so I know EXACTLY what my cleaning regimen does.

Here is the original published a few years ago read it and learn: Barrel Break-in
 
Boss Hoss,

You were very specific about the Lucas Bore Guide.

What cleaning rod do you recommend?

I use Tipton's carbon fiber rod. But, it does have a brass tip for the jag/brush to screw into.

thanks,
richard

Good choice I have Dewey rods myself---------remember to wipe off the rod between brushing and a short blast of brake cleaner on the brush followed by a light tap of the rod on something hard will remove all of the residue off the brush and makes them last orders of magnitude longer. Sweets eats brushes like a 5 year old eating candy LOL!!!!

I have a holder that I slide and store my rods in----protects them and makes them easy to use also have one with a jag and one with brush for example.
 
Ackley,

Don't leave mad. You basically just got here.

We're all a little critical of each other at times.

But, that critical peer review is what ultimately leads to improvements where no one ever thought possible.

Unfortunately, what sometimes seems like a personal attack really isn't. Just like I'm now certain that you had no intention of coming off as a "know it all" even though your post may have had that unintended effect for some.

Sincerely,
richard
 
Forums are better places to pose questions and present reasoning, rather than declaring canned notions..
I've endured the paraphrased, the generalized, the baseless, to outright delusional from magazines. But from you, on a forum, I'd prefer discussions about YOUR ideas.
 
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