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This is a ripoff.
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 840537" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Keith, while it's a bit off topic on a hunting forum, never switch from a fossil based oil to a synthetic or semi synthetic based motor oil in midstream. Thats asking for issues. Stick with the recommended viscosity and API designation the manufacturer recommends...always. Brands mean nothing but the API grade and weight designation does.</p><p> </p><p>The reason your 'idiot' light never came on was the oil pressure sensor sensed oil pressure, which you had, You had no lubrication flow because the oil passages were clogged, like clogged arteries in a human and your engine had a heart attack....</p><p> </p><p>It's like anti-freeze. If your vehicle came with synthetic AF and you switch to ethylene glycol AF, your cooling system sludges up and your motor burns up. The temperature gage reads normal and the 'idiot' light never comes on because the sensor senses normal operating temperature, which it is. Problem is, because the cooling system is gunked up, it has no flow and no flow means another heart attack.....</p><p> </p><p>Most engines today either have a belt driven camshaft arrangement or nylon gears, thats pretty commonplace manufacturing. Belts have to be replaced about every 50K and lubrication issues are hell on any timing arrangement thats internal. Today, most engines are whats termed 'interference fit'. What that means is when the valve timing is lost due to a mechanical or electronic malfunction, the valves hit the top of the pistons doing catastrophic damage to the engine.... and your wallet.</p><p> </p><p>We are a Ford family, I drive a Chevy. No biggie. They are all the same and it's all about regularly scheduled maintenance and using the recommended fluids.</p><p> </p><p>I sympathize with you but I'd never purchase any extended warranty unless it was a factory warranty and even thats iffy.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 840537, member: 39764"] Keith, while it's a bit off topic on a hunting forum, never switch from a fossil based oil to a synthetic or semi synthetic based motor oil in midstream. Thats asking for issues. Stick with the recommended viscosity and API designation the manufacturer recommends...always. Brands mean nothing but the API grade and weight designation does. The reason your 'idiot' light never came on was the oil pressure sensor sensed oil pressure, which you had, You had no lubrication flow because the oil passages were clogged, like clogged arteries in a human and your engine had a heart attack.... It's like anti-freeze. If your vehicle came with synthetic AF and you switch to ethylene glycol AF, your cooling system sludges up and your motor burns up. The temperature gage reads normal and the 'idiot' light never comes on because the sensor senses normal operating temperature, which it is. Problem is, because the cooling system is gunked up, it has no flow and no flow means another heart attack..... Most engines today either have a belt driven camshaft arrangement or nylon gears, thats pretty commonplace manufacturing. Belts have to be replaced about every 50K and lubrication issues are hell on any timing arrangement thats internal. Today, most engines are whats termed 'interference fit'. What that means is when the valve timing is lost due to a mechanical or electronic malfunction, the valves hit the top of the pistons doing catastrophic damage to the engine.... and your wallet. We are a Ford family, I drive a Chevy. No biggie. They are all the same and it's all about regularly scheduled maintenance and using the recommended fluids. I sympathize with you but I'd never purchase any extended warranty unless it was a factory warranty and even thats iffy. [/QUOTE]
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