The barrel on my rifle is finished.

Beandog

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Apr 2, 2015
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Was at a buddy's place yesterday to send a few down range. The results were not encouraging. A load that had shot reasonably well for years just doesn't do it anymore. Afterward,we used his borescope to have a look at the rifling and found there was little left to look at on the breech end. With that, the decision to replace the barrel is pretty much made.

Since major surgery is required, I'm also going to make some changes and chamber the replacement tube in 300 Win. FYI - The old Krieger is in 7mmRM on a SS Remington action. The bullet of choice will probably be a Berger 215/230 hybrid or perhaps a Sierra 210/220 MK or something similar. Probably won't be using VLD's because I could never get them to shoot like they should. I could never get them to shoot fast and accurate at the same time. I'm becoming partial to the Hybrids based on what some fellow shooters have accomplished with them in the 6mm and 6.5mm calibers they have been shooting.

Most of the details of the rebuild are already determined including the 'smith, barrel brand, taper and length, etc. plus some other mods to be made during the blueprint. However, at the risk of sounding amateurish, there are some questions I would like to ask of those who shoot a 300Win. They are:

A) Given the above bullet choice', what twist rate have current shooters been using and are you satisfied with that rate? If you had to do it over, what would you change to? I've got 1 in 9 written down but wonder if this is over cooking the recipe?

B) Regarding the reamer/chamber, would one want more leade to the rifling with this cartridge? To allow for seating the bullet longer and/or for more case volume with this cartridge? If so, how much over the SAAMI spec? I'll get a reamer made if necessary.

Increased leade is something I wished I had done way back when, with the 7mm because the 168 and 180 VLD's I've beenshooting had to be seated fairly deep in order to chamber and shoot well. The old barrel actually shot VLD's best with about .080" freebore.

I would like this re-barrel to be able to live up to the full potential of the 300.

Thank you for your input.

Beandog
 
Without knowing what elevation you are at I would lean towards the 1-9" twist. The more technology advances and bullet testing getting more reformed the more I lean towards having a tighter twist rather than the other way around.

I've worked on plenty with a 10" twist that shot lights out but that isn't what I'd choose in today's world.
 
Without knowing what elevation you are at I would lean towards the 1-9" twist. The more technology advances and bullet testing getting more reformed the more I lean towards having a tighter twist rather than the other way around.

I've worked on plenty with a 10" twist that shot lights out but that isn't what I'd choose in today's world.

I agree. saw this earlier where Brian Litz used a 1/9 twist in a 308 with 215 Bergers to win F-TR last year. Lots of folks saying only 10 or 11 or even 12 twist for things like the 210. But, if Litz used a 1/9 with the 215s, I would too. Some will say it's not needed with the 300 Win, but my 300 RUM shoots 210 VLDs better than it does 215 hybrids and I believe it is the 1/10 twist. It shoots the 215s in the .6 MOA are, but the 210s are more in the .3 MOA area.

Litz Dominates His First-Ever F-TR Match with Pierce-Built Rifle « Daily Bulletin
 
I have a #3 Brux 1-10 twist on my 300 WM. Shoots the 215 incredibly well. I went with a reamer from PTG that BROZ from this site recommended. It is basically their 300 wm tactical reamer with a extra 50 thou of freebore added to it. Allows you to seat the bullets long for added case capacity. My gun shoots the 215's right at 3000 fps (26" barrel). I wouldn't change a thing with how this build turned out.
 
Thanks everybody! Good info and all is being considered. Getting together with the 'smith soon to discuss the project. Will post later next year when it's done.


Sidecar, Regarding the OLD barrel, it's gonna keep working to earn its keep. Was thinkin' to re-thread the tenon to 1" NPT - then attach a 1" x 1 1/2" R coupling and a 1 1/2" x 18" nipple. I'll have the only SS, fluted, and braked 3 1/2 foot cheater bar in the area! Bound to flip someone out!


Beandog
 
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