Target view at long distances

Discussion in 'Long Range Hunting & Shooting' started by ndbwhunter, Jun 21, 2010.

  1. ndbwhunter

    ndbwhunter Member

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    I am kind of new to all of this, so hopefully someone can help me out! I am having trouble finding the shots on target at long distances. I am using a Swarovski 20-60 x 65mm spotting scope, so the optics should be good enough. What should I be using for a target? I have been shooting a plywood target that is painted black and orange. What kind of target could I use to get a better view of hits? Would a metal target painted white give me a better idea of where i'm hitting? Thanks
     
  2. Toomanytracks

    Toomanytracks Well-Known Member

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    What cal.
    What distance
     

  3. ndbwhunter

    ndbwhunter Member

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    300 win mag. between 700-1000 yards.
     
  4. MTBULLET

    MTBULLET Well-Known Member

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    i use a white target, much easier to see shoot placement
     
  5. Toomanytracks

    Toomanytracks Well-Known Member

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    500 on paper after that your guessing. Metal would give a reliable response as to a hit on target. A spotter in conjunction with the shot would be the ideal way to go.
     
  6. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    A suspended steel target painted white seems to be the prefered meathod.
    You can spot hits by seeing movement upon impact
    by seeing impact zone-bullet splatter on white painted steel is way easier to see than a small hole in plywood.
    and finally, depending on hearing protection, theres the audible ''clank'' sound.
    Plus the suspended taeget tends to gobble up alot of bullet energy vs. a ridged steel target, so (depending on shot placement) translates into a more effective way of deflecting bullets-whats left of them- downward in a more predictable safe direction.
    Thats my thoughts annyway.
     
  7. ndbwhunter

    ndbwhunter Member

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    It's funny that you mention the bullets, and "whats left of them". I was shooting 1000 yards on Saturday, and happened to find 3 of the bullets in the back stop. I'm shooting a 150 grain hornady interbond, and all three bullets retained nearly 94% of their weight. I thought that was rather interesting.
     
  8. ndbwhunter

    ndbwhunter Member

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    I like the idea of the suspended steel target. How big should I make it while still keeping it mobile? Remember i'm a newbie and i'm not that great (especially with the wind) of a shot at long distances yet. Would a 24" disc cut from a 3/8" plate be overkill?
     
  9. winmag

    winmag Well-Known Member

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    Alot of guys make thier targets about the same size as the vitals on the smallest animal they plan to hunt at that range.
    Completely up to you as the shooter. If 24'' is going to challenge you to get better, while building confidence at the same time then make it 24''.
    I can consistantly scare the heck out of a 16'' target from 900-1k, but first round hits for me at that range are not common....yet..... So I keep practicing with the ''aim small, miss small'' technique,(-small being relitave in my case). Each shooter has thier own idea/technique opinions. But remember, Confidence is a powerfull tool, wich, IMO, directly relates to attitude, accuracy, and performance.
     
  10. ndbwhunter

    ndbwhunter Member

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    Thanks for the input! Maybe a 24" target is a little big. I'll try knocking it down the a 16" and see how bad I can scare that target!
     
  11. lamiglas

    lamiglas Well-Known Member

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    I have been doing a ton of shooting lately in the 1000 yard range. I highly recomend atleast 20" x 20". also, it costs alot but if you start with ar-500 or ar-400 (both have worked great for us) you will not regret it. in the last two months we have fired over 600 rounds into these with 338 rum, 338 edge and 300 ultras and they still look like new. In our group we have several circle targets in the 12" to 15" range, and only two that are 18 X 18". the two bigger ones are the ones we set up most often past 800 yards. Wind is the reason. lots of times at 1000 we will make a first round hits (but often on or towards the edge) because of the wind. on the smaller targets it would be a miss. with a hit we can calculate our error and adjust and learn from this. with a miss although the spotter can usually tell where it hit, it can be difficult, especially if the background is any distance beyond a couple of feet behind the target. we still aim small for the center of the plate, but if we are say 8 inches from center because of the wind or... its still nice to have a hit on the steel. just my opinion.

    also, on the steel painted white, hits are visable through the scope at 1000 yards. at 1450 yds had to strain to see them, but with the spotting scope (45 power), no problem
     
    Last edited: Jun 21, 2010
  12. liltank

    liltank Well-Known Member

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    We use a 24" wide X 12" high 5/8" plate R400 steel plate. It's hung on a rebar frame, hung with chain. We use 3/8" clasps that thread to link the chains. We paint it white with a florescent paint 10" dot in the center. Even at 1100yrds with a 18x Nikon binoculars we can see hits on target when the bullet splatters. We hit it with a 338 Lapua and a 300WSM.

    Tank
     
  13. adam330

    adam330 Well-Known Member

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    As some of the previous posters have stated metal targets painted white are one of the best targets to spot and also hear hits on. If you want the target to last get ar500, check the classifieds, i think there are some for sale on there :D
     
  14. dustybrown

    dustybrown Well-Known Member

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    Im not sure if its my eyes or im just wierd... but I like black with a white bull better than vise versa... The splatter is light and shows up well on the black. And ya a clanger is fun to hear.... If you are not hitting a 24" at a grand I started out with a 4x8 sheet of ply wood and just used butcher papper to fresh it up... Now Im ok with 22" round steel.... I used rebar and old tire chain I found on the road. When its windy I will sometime still use the ply wood behind my dinger it helps with my wind dope to measure cold bore misses...
     
    Last edited: Jun 22, 2010