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stripped allen screw removal
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 642607" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>The machinist in me like Gary's way best. I'd improve on it with a left hand twist drill. Cut the relief steep and it will back out the offending SHCS with a little heat (as suggested 230 or so for blue threadlocker). The good old weller soldering iron is tits for localized heat. Short drill (screw machine length preferred) or shorter and slow speed. In lieu of a short drill, suck it up in the chuck as far as it will go and leave as little as possible protruding.</p><p> </p><p>I believe the only quality SHCS's left are Hollo-Chrome and even they may be made offshore.</p><p> </p><p>I'm making a part for my website store from 6 series aluminum with a stainless stud locked in it's center, locked with 272. Once it cures, the stud breaks off before it comes out. Good stuff..... Don't use it.gun)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 642607, member: 39764"] The machinist in me like Gary's way best. I'd improve on it with a left hand twist drill. Cut the relief steep and it will back out the offending SHCS with a little heat (as suggested 230 or so for blue threadlocker). The good old weller soldering iron is tits for localized heat. Short drill (screw machine length preferred) or shorter and slow speed. In lieu of a short drill, suck it up in the chuck as far as it will go and leave as little as possible protruding. I believe the only quality SHCS's left are Hollo-Chrome and even they may be made offshore. I'm making a part for my website store from 6 series aluminum with a stainless stud locked in it's center, locked with 272. Once it cures, the stud breaks off before it comes out. Good stuff..... Don't use it.gun) [/QUOTE]
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