Steel practice targets

Discussion in 'Equipment Discussions' started by Chuck Boyer, Feb 25, 2007.

  1. Chuck Boyer

    Chuck Boyer Active Member

    Jun 26, 2004
    I read a thread and now I can't find it on high power rifle steel targets. I am looking for something to shoot that will not be destroyed by high velocity centerfire rifles. The target needs to be able to withstand 3000 fps plus impact velocity. Any help?
  2. philny1

    philny1 Well-Known Member

    Dec 27, 2006
    Local junk yard, welding shop. Usually have some sort of plate laying around.
    3000fps---back off abit.

  3. 260shooter

    260shooter Well-Known Member

    Oct 16, 2004
    I'm having the problem. Went to a local machine shop and spok ewith two employees whom were also pistol shooters. I told them I would like at least T1 or something harder if they had any. My requirements were min distance 300 yards and magnum rifle. They told me I shouldn't need something that hard and that it is pricey and hard to come by (Uncle Sugar seems to be using a fair amount of it these days). They said they shot at mild steel at 30 yards with magnum pistols and it bairley leaves a scuff mark. I says OK, relying on these to fellows years of experience. They cut me a 12" by 16" by 3/4" piece of mild steel and put some hangers on it and off I go happy as a lark /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif. Off to the range I go place target at 300 and set up rifle (7WSM W/ 162 A-MAX at 2950). Fired 3 shots and checked target, and sure enough I had 3 nice 1/4" by 1/2" crators in the face of the steel /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif. So now I will be going back and getting at least a 1/4" of T1 or harder weilded to the face of the plate. I was told I don't need a thick layer of abrasion resistant steel, that the 1/4" should work. If anyone has any experience with this, will it hold up or will a thicker piece be needed?

  4. biggjake

    biggjake Well-Known Member

    Sep 7, 2002
    I've shot some of the LVSTEEL targets:
    He uses AR500 steel,and they hold up to big centerfires at 200M,and I've seen them shot with 50BMG at 500M with very little cratering.(with A-MAX bullets,no AP)
  5. D.P.

    D.P. Well-Known Member

    May 21, 2004
    AR-500 is the Sh!!

    3/8" and a 308 only knocks the paint off of it at close range.

    I just got some 1/4" AR scraps. The guy I got it from is checking to see if it's 400 or 500 AR

    I will post in a week of two after we shoot it up a little.
  6. uncleB

    uncleB Well-Known Member

    Aug 19, 2005
    If you can find it Hardox 500 is even better than ar500.
  7. Sendero_Man

    Sendero_Man <strong>SPONSOR</strong>

    Feb 4, 2007
    I just sit on the hill above my mother in laws new Cady...

    and well you can tell where this is going.... LOL

    No, really +1 on UB
  8. Ian M

    Ian M Well-Known Member

    May 3, 2001
    There are two ways to go - spend some dollars or cheap. Expensive is to buy commercially built targets usually made of AR500. There are several good sources on the net, is one. Other way is to buy, borrow, mooch some scrap non-hardened steel, heavier (thicker) the better, and make gongs that are going to get beat up but what the heck. Find an old kiddies swing set, hang the pieces of steel on it and give it. Take the shot-up pieces back to the junkyard and replace every so often. Big is best, get the pieces as large as you (and a buddy or two) can handle. Soft steel will divot, crater and bend into a bow but it still works great at longer ranges. Usually five hundred yards is where we start putting out steel, with .308's damage is virtually nonexistent with soft steel. Have seen .338 Lapuas do a nasty job on soft steel targets at 600 yards, it depends on what you are shooting.
  9. azsugarbear

    azsugarbear Well-Known Member

    Sep 20, 2005
    Here is another steel target vendor that has had some positive posts on lrh.

    I was down in Tucson last week and bought one of their swinger targets and stands. I haven't used them yet, but they are impressive and appear to be stout. This metal is basically standard armor plating for military that has not been "certified".

    Prior to this new target, I went down to a scrap metal yard and bought a piece of 16" x 12" x 3/4" mild steel for about $30. I drilled it, then hung some hooks on it. I then went up into the mountains and built a fire on top of it to try and temper it. After a couple of hours in the coals, it was a dull cherry red color. I dropped it in the stream to quench it. It has worked well, but I don't use it under 500 yds. The bullets still pock the metal, but not badly. I just figured with all the time and gas involved in the tempering process, it was cheaper to buy. I now use both targets.
  10. jb1000br

    jb1000br Well-Known Member

    Jul 8, 2003
    Do NOT waste time or money on T1!
  11. Okiecat

    Okiecat Well-Known Member

    May 3, 2005
    If you know a large contractor with bulldozers, then go see them. You are looking for the corner bits they take off the blades when they wear out. Pretty often. A D-6 and bigger is better, they will be about 3/4" thick or more and about 8" X 14". If they replaced the bolts get them to and drop them in the holes and weld up. Then put 2 together and weld up. Hang with old chain. These suckers are hard and usually free.
  12. Boss Hoss

    Boss Hoss Well-Known Member

    Nov 10, 2005
    Thes folks built mine and even put the armor plate around the frames -- Perfect with no issues even with 250 gr SMK's leaving the muzzle at 3100 at 600 and 1200 yards. Not even the slightest dent just splatter marks. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/smile.gif
  13. joecool

    joecool Well-Known Member

    Feb 2, 2006

    I went to Las Vegas last weekend for the Nascar races ‘WAY TOO MUCH FUN’ and called up Kurt at went right over to his house and pick up three targets. Saved on shipping!!!! way good. Got to meet Kurt in person and BS him for a while, one heck of a nice guy even if he doesn’t go to the races. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/shocked.gif/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
  14. victor

    victor Well-Known Member

    Dec 16, 2004
    Ok, here is my experience with cheap targets:

    Specs: Target must be mobile (light weight, compact, easy to assemble).

    I was on a hunting excursion with a buddy and saw a small portion of a plowing disc sticking out of the ground. I thought, hey I bet I could use that for something. I dug it up and took it home.

    This last weekend, I decided to weld up a simple collapsible frame for the disc. Welded some chain to it, painted it white with some old paint that I had laying around and I had my target.
    Steel rods (5' long)= $1.50 each at the Home Depot garden center. Disc = Free, Chain = free (don't remember where it came from)(I don't throw anything away). Cross bar tube = free. End tubes = free (old weight bench).
    Here are pics of what it looks like:
    [​IMG] [​IMG] [​IMG]

    And here is what happened after shooting at it from 523 yards:
    Rifles used to hit target were .270Wby mag using 135 SMK @ 3,330 FPS &amp; .300Win Mag.

    I was shooting off a bipod with long legs for shooting over tall grass, with no rear rest. I had a hard time staying on target so I used the old method of jerking the trigger when my crosshair crossed the target. Hit the disc every time, but that was the only goal, no grouping attempted.
    My buddy shot his .300Win off his knee with just hold over and hit it every time after 2 doping shots.

    Ok, the target did not hold up too well, but it made a really nice sound each time. I need to find a cheap source for these discs, as they are the perfect size and light weight for packing into areas where you can't drive a vehicle. It's quick to tack a chain on and go shooting.

    This may not be for everybody, but it's cheap and quick.

    Best Regards,