Just an idea but on the slipping rings couldn't you take strips of electrical tape and put them in the rings?
Scope Rings with Integrated Level
- Thread starter Doublezranch
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I guess I understand people that will spend a boat load of $$ on anti-cant devices and integrated rings with fancy anti-cant. I am not competing and this is working for me.
At first glance I love the looks of these rings, but the challenge I see with them is getting the screws tighten down perfectly level from side to side. JMOMasterpiece Arms
https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-rings/
XLR chassis builders makes the Element 4.0 Aluminum chassis with a built in level:
View attachment 439265
I swapped out all my Spuhrs for Hawkins with the offset level. The bubble is on the objective ring where I see it with my non-dominant eye so I don't have to move to look. On my race guns I add a send-it level only because it's faster to see level. I ignore the level in the XLR chassis since you can't see it without moving and it's not very accurate.
Munch
Well-Known Member
The Spuhr is very clear!This is exactly what I was looking for!!
I really want to try something integrated. My worry is that I won't be able to see the level. They seem small. The OM level looks blue. There are certainly style points for that. However, when you're paying $200+ for a set rings, you want them to work.
The masterpiece arms looks the brightest out of the integrated ones.
The flatline sniper level looks very bright as well.
The Spuhr looks almost clear in the picture.
Rick Richard
Well-Known Member
It can be a challenge for sure. Set aside sometime to do it. Trust me I know.
KH_Outdoors
Well-Known Member
Mike, what rings are you using with the 300 NMI & NX8?I use the Flatline Ops Sniper X on my 300 NMI with an NX8. It's a tube mounted level but it installs very easily, is stowable and has independent level adjustments for stowed and extended positions. The bubble is large and the fluid is very bright and visible.
SNIPER-X™ ACCU/LEVEL™ Articulating, Fine-adjustable
SNIPER-X™ SERIES, THE NEXT LEVEL The all new Sniper-X™ Series ACCU/LEVEL™ is the latest of refreshed products in our level series, based on our original Sniper scope level. We have made improvements on this legendary, patented, longest running level. The new Sniper-X is now 100% manufactured...flatlineops.com
View attachment 439269View attachment 439270
Munch
Well-Known Member
I found the LRA Send It level lighting system distracting.
Good thing there are so many options to choose from!
KS2506
Well-Known Member
Never had a scope slip with the Burris Signature rings. Even on a light weight custom (7.5lbs) 378 Weatherby.
I am relatively new to the bubble level concept. I never had much of an issue with canting the rifle causing accuracy issues or enlarged shot groups. My current long range rifle is a factory T3 in 30-06. I bought the rifle used so have no idea how many rounds there are down the factory barrel but as long as it shoots sum MOA I really don't much care. I have a Talley 20 MOA rail, Vortex Pro Series 30 mm rings and a Vortex Diamondback 6 x 24 x 50 mounted on the top of it. A few years ago I was practicing at 300 yards and noticed that the groups were nice and tight at 100 yards that at 300 the dispersion pattern had opened up to slightly more than 2 inches at 300 yards, and the group had taken on a oval shape. A friend mentioned that I might be canting the rifle slightly, which was something that I hadn't though much about since it never was an issue before. I paid close attention when shooting the next group and the group returned to the typical circular pattern. To keep a longer story short I bought a Vortex 30 mm bubble level and after rechecking the scope level with the rifle I installed the level on the left side of the scope since I shoot right handed most of the time and went back out to the range. It was interesting to find that when I thought the rifle was level it was actually 1/8 to 1/4 bubble off most of the time. With the rifle now level the group sizes diminished somewhat and became consistent.
As far as the scope walking, the only time I have had that issue rear it's ugly head was with my first 300 Mag, a Winchester Model 70 with a synthetic stock that tipped the scales at 6 1/2 pounds before scope and mounts. At the time I he Leupold two piece bases and mounts on a 4 X 12 X 40 Redfield Accu Range - Accu Track scope. The Winchester kicked like a mule and I had issues with the scope moving in the mounts. I couldn't get the rifle to group much less than 1 1/2 and eventually when my shoulder started telling me it did not like the recoil I sold the rifle. I now wonder if the larger group was multiplied not only by the scope walking but my shoulder saying enough is enough?
My latest venture into the 300 WM was a Browning AB3. I had a custom muzzle brake installed before I ever pulled the trigger so recoil was not bad at all. The brake brought the recoil down to somewhere between a 243 and a 308, quite comfortable all in all. This rifle had barrel issues with the inside of the bore looking like a gold mine after a few shots and groups opening up after as few as 5 shots. Should have sent the rifle back to Browning but didn't. (Silli Me!!!) The cost of the 300 WM factory ammo was cost prohibitive and with up to almost 70 grains powder reloading wasn't much cheaper, especially these days. I sold it a few weeks ago, now have to find something else to play with. I have a friend who has a 7MM Mag, maybe that might be something to look into playing with. Anybody have any ideas for a rifle shooting easy to find factory ammo, no wildcats or off the wall calibers and most importantly will hold or increase in value?
I guess the moral of the story is that even though you think you are doing everything right, there might be some insidious little glitch messing you up. Sometimes you have to look beyond the end of your nose to fix what is causing you issues.
As far as the scope walking, the only time I have had that issue rear it's ugly head was with my first 300 Mag, a Winchester Model 70 with a synthetic stock that tipped the scales at 6 1/2 pounds before scope and mounts. At the time I he Leupold two piece bases and mounts on a 4 X 12 X 40 Redfield Accu Range - Accu Track scope. The Winchester kicked like a mule and I had issues with the scope moving in the mounts. I couldn't get the rifle to group much less than 1 1/2 and eventually when my shoulder started telling me it did not like the recoil I sold the rifle. I now wonder if the larger group was multiplied not only by the scope walking but my shoulder saying enough is enough?
My latest venture into the 300 WM was a Browning AB3. I had a custom muzzle brake installed before I ever pulled the trigger so recoil was not bad at all. The brake brought the recoil down to somewhere between a 243 and a 308, quite comfortable all in all. This rifle had barrel issues with the inside of the bore looking like a gold mine after a few shots and groups opening up after as few as 5 shots. Should have sent the rifle back to Browning but didn't. (Silli Me!!!) The cost of the 300 WM factory ammo was cost prohibitive and with up to almost 70 grains powder reloading wasn't much cheaper, especially these days. I sold it a few weeks ago, now have to find something else to play with. I have a friend who has a 7MM Mag, maybe that might be something to look into playing with. Anybody have any ideas for a rifle shooting easy to find factory ammo, no wildcats or off the wall calibers and most importantly will hold or increase in value?I guess the moral of the story is that even though you think you are doing everything right, there might be some insidious little glitch messing you up. Sometimes you have to look beyond the end of your nose to fix what is causing you issues.
BHP9
Well-Known Member
The only problem I see with that style of ring/level is if the ring cap is not torqued down evenly (gap the same on both sides) then the level could be 2 or 3 (or more) degrees from level.Masterpiece Arms
https://masterpiecearms.com/shop/mpa-ba-rings/
XLR chassis builders makes the Element 4.0 Aluminum chassis with a built in level:
View attachment 439265
The level on the bottom ring would be better.
Doublezranch
Well-Known Member
Excellent discussion going on here. I really enjoy reading about the options, techniques, and real word experience from everyone.
Thank you to all who have posted thus far.
Jayson
Thank you to all who have posted thus far.
Jayson
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Nightforce had ring caps with levels much like the Hawkins.
Spuhr rings / mounts have integral levels as well. They're on the bottom of the ring / mount
Although not part of the ring, Accuracy 1st level attaches to the scope tube and utilized a ceramic ball as opposed to a bubble. It's a great set up.
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tony d willIiams
Well-Known Member
A level on a scope, I have heard about them, I haven't used one. I am shooting a 338LM, not a 375 or larger.
I sight in, have the vertical fibre passing up and down on aim point. It moves as my heart beats, up and down a couple to six inches above and below my aim point.
Set, pause, at high or low on heartbeat, and squeeze past the breaking point.
Always both eyes open.
I use a level ± 0.0001/deviation to level my rifles, then to level the scope using the same level. It takes me a few hours of the day as when I tighten the ring's clamp, the scope rotates a small amount. Loktite blue to hold in place.
I taught my son to do the same. His diagonal misses, greater as the distance being at shot increased went away.
The level I obtained when I used to set large precision machines. It was low cost, $75.00 as I recall, it is too precise, the "real" price would have discouraged me.
I sight in, have the vertical fibre passing up and down on aim point. It moves as my heart beats, up and down a couple to six inches above and below my aim point.
Set, pause, at high or low on heartbeat, and squeeze past the breaking point.
Always both eyes open.
I use a level ± 0.0001/deviation to level my rifles, then to level the scope using the same level. It takes me a few hours of the day as when I tighten the ring's clamp, the scope rotates a small amount. Loktite blue to hold in place.
I taught my son to do the same. His diagonal misses, greater as the distance being at shot increased went away.
The level I obtained when I used to set large precision machines. It was low cost, $75.00 as I recall, it is too precise, the "real" price would have discouraged me.
