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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Long Range Scopes and Other Optics
Schmidt & Bender PMI
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<blockquote data-quote="Brown Dog" data-source="post: 66801" data-attributes="member: 1622"><p>alg,</p><p></p><p>You have mail! -I've sent you some targets and stuff:</p><p></p><p>I used to have the 3-12x50 Swarovski with TDS too. (I also found this reticle a little too thick -fine for hunting but too thick for plinking!).</p><p></p><p>The S&amp;B crosshair line is 7mm thick at 100m, the TDS is 17mm at the same distance (I could not comfortably take on 2cm target dots at 100m with the TDS).</p><p></p><p>With the TDS I came to feel that it was more important to zero the range bar for, 200 or 300metres rather than the main 100m crosshair at 100m (and thus I would accept whatever small error the 100m crosshair may have at 100m as a result.)</p><p></p><p>I did a lot of subtension work with the TDS, based on additional info I asked for from Swarovski.</p><p></p><p>I've sent you 2 targets that I created to allow this, one for 200m one for 300m. (Print them A4 size or the scaling will go wrong!)</p><p></p><p>At 200m, use the main crosshair to centre on the main part of the target [the aiming marks are scaled to reflect the subtension of the TDS crosshair at 200 or 300m]. (I found aiming precisely for zeroing to be easier with the main crosshair). Adjust your MPI onto the dot at the bottom of the target (that's exactly whereYour 200m range bar is pointing!).</p><p></p><p>For the 300m target do the same (although you have to draw your own dot below the target -it says how far on the target title).</p><p></p><p>Also included an excel spreadsheet for calculating the subtension of the range barsbars at 'non-standard' ranges.</p><p></p><p>Hope they're of use (at least until you sort yourself out with a S&amp;B!)</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brown Dog, post: 66801, member: 1622"] alg, You have mail! -I've sent you some targets and stuff: I used to have the 3-12x50 Swarovski with TDS too. (I also found this reticle a little too thick -fine for hunting but too thick for plinking!). The S&B crosshair line is 7mm thick at 100m, the TDS is 17mm at the same distance (I could not comfortably take on 2cm target dots at 100m with the TDS). With the TDS I came to feel that it was more important to zero the range bar for, 200 or 300metres rather than the main 100m crosshair at 100m (and thus I would accept whatever small error the 100m crosshair may have at 100m as a result.) I did a lot of subtension work with the TDS, based on additional info I asked for from Swarovski. I've sent you 2 targets that I created to allow this, one for 200m one for 300m. (Print them A4 size or the scaling will go wrong!) At 200m, use the main crosshair to centre on the main part of the target [the aiming marks are scaled to reflect the subtension of the TDS crosshair at 200 or 300m]. (I found aiming precisely for zeroing to be easier with the main crosshair). Adjust your MPI onto the dot at the bottom of the target (that's exactly whereYour 200m range bar is pointing!). For the 300m target do the same (although you have to draw your own dot below the target -it says how far on the target title). Also included an excel spreadsheet for calculating the subtension of the range barsbars at 'non-standard' ranges. Hope they're of use (at least until you sort yourself out with a S&B!) [/QUOTE]
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