Salt Bath Annealing setup and quantitative assessment.

Yes, thank you.
Was planning on getting set up with salt but then got a little put off after the AMP report and decided to wait until more tests came out.
 
Thank you for doing the tests. I know how much of a pain in the neck these kind of tests can be and how much work goes into getting as much as possible "just so," so that the results have meaning (and don't look like you're trying to slant the results)! I've been considering a salt bath annealer lately and while the AMP artical gave me pause, I wasn't too dissuaded as there are just too many people posting that it works for it to be a total waste of time. If it works, it can't be stupid, as the saying goes. I would like to have one the AMP machines but it's pretty much out of my price range. I may end building the same rig you did, so thanks for that as well!
Cheers,
crkckr
 
IMO, the Amp declarations represent the last gasp of huge efforts being killed off by far less. Dip annealing is hurting their business..
This thread posted testing shows an affect, which leads to no credible conclusion good or bad. But an apparent affect.

As far as neck tension, there are a few things to consider:
1. We currently have no method to directly measure a neck's hoop tension.
2. Seating force, and various excess interference fitting, means so little in correlation to neck tension, that you might as well drop the notions about them.
3. We do not full anneal brass. We stress relieve it.
4. Any annealing amount changes more than one aspect of our loads. So results before & after are only meaningful with load development before & after.

An analogy:
If you switch from clean to moly coated bullets your MV will drop. It's not because neck tension went down as often thought with lower seating forces (it didn't). It's not because the coated bullets are slipperier. It's because of latent heat of vaporization of moly, cooling and affecting your powder burn rate.
You couldn't just go back & forth between bare bullets and moly coated bullets, and declare one condition 'better' than another. It's not one condition. You'd have to counter cause & effect to isolate results for the 'one' change in consideration.

Lower neck tension from annealing also affects your powder burn rate and tune. So optimum powder burn rate and amount in one neck condition may not be optimum for another. It can't be assumed that any annealing will be the right thing to do. It has to be locally tested/adjusted for to know one way or another.

Folks, we have this sad human condition:
Most paying a lot for promised improvements, will convince themselves of this result -even if total hogwash..
And another human condition:
Intelligence is divided by numbers. The larger the mob, the lower it's understanding of whatever formed it..

There is so much stirring up about annealing lately, that some reloaders are likely worried about it. They may feel like they have to solve this, because they have to do it, because there is so much chatter about it. While truly, some of this won't help them at all.
 
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In reference to time exposure, you might consider a seat for the case mouth to ensue liquid from the salt bath will find its way into the interior of the neck. This exposure will likely influence the bath time. The Ballistics recreations package allows the salt to enter into the interior of the case.
 
Cartridge brass only needs full annealing prior to major forming.
From then on, it needs no more than a mild process annealing (stress relieving).

Keep in mind, you lose all tension with fully annealed necks, which are dead soft.
 
And just in case I can score the same source, where did you find the free KNO3 and NaNO3 ? I mean is it in a garden store or something?

I get my potassium nitrate KNO3 from any hardware store. I get "Spectracide Stump Remover" which happens to be pure potassium nitrate.

I also get my sodium nitrate NaNO3 from a hardware store. I get "Hi-Yield Nitrate of Soda 16-0-0 fertilizer" which happens to be pure sodium nitrate.
 
I get my potassium nitrate KNO3 from any hardware store. I get "Spectracide Stump Remover" which happens to be pure potassium nitrate.

I also get my sodium nitrate NaNO3 from a hardware store. I get "Hi-Yield Nitrate of Soda 16-0-0 fertilizer" which happens to be pure sodium nitrate.

Thanks for this explanation. I couldn't figure out how you got those ingredients from a hardware store!
 
I should also say I finished my salt bath annealer using your plans. I have annealed two batches of brass, but not yet taken them to the range. The process works well, the temperature seems to hold quite precisely, and I was able to anneal 100 pieces of brass in less than an hour, once the salt got to temperature. I'm liking it.
 
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