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Get Kevin to do you up and Accuracy package he is a sponser here and I will vouch for him.
Grit how is our methods really that different? Could you explain a little bit more. As far as i can see our only difference is the work that is done before any serious changes are made? IMO everyone should test what they have before wholesale parts swapping. Most economical.
First off, my intent is to be infomative and helpful, not argue. For the record, I am a smith. I admire Shaun and Kirby, pleased to be in good company. I'm more than happy to explain my position a little more.
Let me separate two concepts. Accuracy is tight groups. Consistency is repeatability.
It's true you can tune a rifle, like your walnut stocked factory rig, using action screw pressure and pressure points on the barrel and other methods of this nature. You can make a rifle shoot bugholes this way. Accuracy. This is fun, but only half the battle.
If you change the pressures on your barrel or action the rifle will shoot differently. Many things will change these pressures. For example, shooting off different platforms, a tight sling, off a bipod, or off your back pack. Temperature and humidity will shrink and expand walnut dramatically.
What we are after is consistent accuracy. This means the rifle shoots tight groups, to the same point of aim, regardless of shooting position, pressures on the stock, and in varying temperature and humididty.
Consistency is achieved by eliminating and / or minimizing the pressure changes which affect our barrelled action.
The first step is a stock material which is affected minimally by temp and humidity. We use laminates, synthetics, and aluminum bedding blocks or pillars. The more rigid a stock is the less it flexes and changes pressures. We also free float the barrel for several reasons.
Start with a stable platform, a rigid stock effected by heat and humidity as little as possible. Bed the action. This mates the stock to the action and makes the vibrations and pressure points the same from shot to shot. Recoil is transmitted to the stock consistently through the recoil lug. Unbedded actions move violently in thier mortises. They load all sorts of varying contact points, like the magazine, action screws, and trigger. The action may end in the same position for the next shot, it may not. Free float the barrel. A barrel that's not free floated will transmit pressure changes on the forend directly to the barrel, making it shoot differently from different rests, positions, and environments. Barrels also swell and heat as you shoot them. If there is barrel contact, pressure changes, barrel harmonics change, and the rifle will shoot differently. Tune the trigger. The Rem 700 has a pretty good trigger if it is well tuned. Finally, do load work up. If accuracy isn't where you want, start with the crown...
While some of the aspects contributing to utmost accuracy aren't fully understood, we do understand a whole lot. Allow your rifle to shoot consistently. Then, tune it for accuracy, and the accuracy will always be there. No fliers when you know you did your job right.
As for doing things economically, sometimes compromises must be made. There are solid, inexpensive stocks available. You can bed the action yourself, fit and finish yourself. Use a factory trigger. A trigger job is inexpensive. Just don't handicap your rifles potential by using a flimsy stock, not bedding, not free floating, and not tuning the triger. If you start with the basics, I guarrantee the end results will be rewarding!
Your goals and perspective are a factor too. For me, 6-800 yards is simple, 1000-1200 is high percentage, and a mile is fun.
I hope this is helpful. Anyone is welcome to PM, email, or call anytime. I'm eager to help, and eager to learn.
Regards, Lorenzo
While some of the variables contributing to ultimate accuracy are not understood.
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