remington 700 Action Screw torque?

[barnesuser28]

I used to shoot Hunter Benchrest and the actions were either Remington 722, 700 or a 700 clone and they were all torqued to 65 in/lbs. I'm with Mud.

If those stocks were bedded (which im assuming they were) then i would also go 50-65 in lbs. Since his stock isnt bedded i would go 40 in lbs.

 

[D.Camilleri]

I am not sure on your bell and Carlson stock, but my bell and Carlson Alaskan has a full length aluminum bedding block that is contoured to the action. It is not a v style bedding block. I torque mine to 65 inch pounds and don't have any issues. Pull your barreled action out of the stock and inspect it or better yet, post up some pictures of the barrel channel.

 

[FEENIX]

IIWY, I'd go with the manufacturer's torque recommendation. Below is an excerpt from a reputable LRH member and gunsmith's (Chad Dixon) post on action torque value ...

"Different materials have varying degrees of lubricity, tensile strength, and surface hardness. All of which plays into this."

"Excessive screw torque is attempting to mask a larger underlying problem. Poor bedding and/or incompatability of components."

Good luck!

 

[mustang58]

Makes sense that if you're not bedded correctly that too much torque would tweek your action alignment.

 

[Bigeclipse]

If those stocks were bedded (which im assuming they were) then i would also go 50-65 in lbs. Since his stock isnt bedded i would go 40 in lbs.

now im really confused...I thought my stock was bedded...with aluminum bedding blocks

 

[barnesuser28]

If someone says their stock is bedded, that means it is bedded with epoxy. Your stock only has the bedding block so it is not bedded. Bedding with epoxy forms a perfect fit for your individual action.

 

[Bigeclipse]

If someone says their stock is bedded, that means it is bedded with epoxy. Your stock only has the bedding block so it is not bedded. Bedding with epoxy forms a perfect fit for your individual action.

ah ok...thank you for the clarification!

 

[FEENIX]

Bedding with epoxy forms a perfect fit for your individual action.

... because of it, it should require lesser torque to firmly secure it, ie., 45 instead of 65.

Similarly, when you lap a scope ring, you create more contact surface thus yielding better scope fit/stronger hold for the same torque value.

 

[barnesuser28]

Check out the end of the quote on post #7. http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/f37/whats-torque-spec-6-48-base-screws-84397/

 

[FEENIX]

It's easy to disregard most of this and whittle it down to saying "it's just a fricken deer rifle." Thankfully that position isn't taken by engineers who design stuff most of us take for granted when flying commercial or cruising around under the arctic circle.

Take it for what its worth, but this is what I learned:

I'm fortunate to have some pretty smart fellers for friends. One in particular lives in the Seattle area and makes a very comfortable living designing, developing, and evaluating fasteners for aerospace and nuclear submarine applications.

About 8 years ago I asked for his help on this very question. First, there isn't a "blanket answer" that covers everything. For the sake of this discussion we'll use a particular screw.

1/4-28 made from 300 series stainless. Popular now with many of the custom actions.

With this particular fastener you don't exceed 40 inch pounds. Period. If you do the fastener will yield because it exceeds the tensile loading capacity of the threads and you end up only chasing problems that really don't exist.

Different materials have varying degrees of lubricity, tensile strength, and surface hardness. All of which play into this.

You also must take into consideration the thread pitch. This is where friction coefficients, flank surface area, and shear angles also become important. Not to mention root diameters vs major diameter and the torsional/shear loading applied to the cylinder/shaft portion of the fastener.

Be that as it may if you sit and do the math the numbers are pretty close. One does not clearly outshine the other.

Don't forget also that the threads in the receiver are just as capable of being influenced. A kryptonite fastener is only as effective as what its being screwed into.

Excessive screw torque is attempting to mask a larger underlying problem: Poor bedding and/or incompatibility of components.

If your building a spaghetti M700 in a boomer with a barrel that resembles the axle out of an excavator in a featherweight sporter stock, then its likely the gun will perform poorly no matter how much tension is put on the guard screws.


Hope this helped.

C

(http://www.longrangehunting.com/forums/newreply.php?do=newreply&p=461009)

Like Chad, I too was very fortunate to work in the 1980s with some very brilliant minds. Our CEO's Dad was a retired German metallurgist in WWII where he worked in their tank production program was an advisor to the company; our VP of engineering is a Swedish material engineer/scientist that worked in the aeronautical division of Saab (Viggen); and quite a few design and manufacturing engineers in an electro-magnetic industry.

One of my job is to test material strength (to include torque of various precision components mated together with dissimilar material), temp cycle, etc at various stages of the production processes ..., in short, I get to break them down ... within in desired test parameters of course set by the engineers.

 

[7magcreedmoor]

Whatever torque spec you ultimately decide upon, be sure to do this: When assembling and torqueing the rifle into the stock, put the screws in finger-tight only, then stand the rifle on its buttpad and give it a light bounce, then hold down (the same direction of recoil) on the barrel while tightening the screws to the final torque setting. Torque the screw closest to the recoil lug first, then the tang screw. This helps to ensure that the recoil lug is solidly against the abutment. Personally I like a bedded (after reading all the previous posts I'll clarify- the action has full contact in an exactly conforming layer of suitable epoxy) setup with pillars in the screw-holes. When tightening the screws, it should feel as if the movement of the screws stops suddenly- one instant you feel the sliding of the threads, the next the torque device snaps. This indicates you are not able to compress the material the action rest on, which was the point of the whole bedding process. You might want to conduct a test for the "ideal torque" for your rig if you can't sort all the varying answers you've received here: I suggest starting at 40inch-pounds, shoot a group or two, increase by 5 inch-pounds, shoot again, and so on up to the maximum suggested. You will probably find a "tuned" setting that shoots noticeably better than the rest. All part of getting to know your rig.

 

[Velvet]

Whatever torque spec you ultimately decide upon, be sure to do this: When assembling and torqueing the rifle into the stock, put the screws in finger-tight only, then stand the rifle on its buttpad and give it a light bounce, then hold down (the same direction of recoil) on the barrel while tightening the screws to the final torque setting. Torque the screw closest to the recoil lug first, then the tang screw. This helps to ensure that the recoil lug is solidly against the abutment. Personally I like a bedded (after reading all the previous posts I'll clarify- the action has full contact in an exactly conforming layer of suitable epoxy) setup with pillars in the screw-holes. When tightening the screws, it should feel as if the movement of the screws stops suddenly- one instant you feel the sliding of the threads, the next the torque device snaps. This indicates you are not able to compress the material the action rest on, which was the point of the whole bedding process. You might want to conduct a test for the "ideal torque" for your rig if you can't sort all the varying answers you've received here: I suggest starting at 40inch-pounds, shoot a group or two, increase by 5 inch-pounds, shoot again, and so on up to the maximum suggested. You will probably find a "tuned" setting that shoots noticeably better than the rest. All part of getting to know your rig.

Yeah.
I do this with each rifle I have.
With each torque, the groups change acordingly.
Good advice 7Mag..._
Best regards
FF