yeah, there is an indentation all around the bullet. It's kinda hard to see in the pic I sent.
Reloading headache with bullet seating issues
- Thread starter Rileyz
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I did a little playing around, and when I used my rcbs full length sizer followed by running the mandrel through, there was less pressure and a barely noticeable ring with my Forster seater. When I used my type s Redding full length sizer with .091 bushing followed by the mandrel and seating with the Forster, there was still a noticeable dent and ring. Not sure what gives. I know I spent too much time on this today though. Lol. Thanks for all the help so far! I appreciate any other info you all have. Thanks.
Warrenoliver
Well-Known Member
Are you chamfering the inside of the neck before seating? Might try some graphite on the neck also.
Warren
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
Out of curiosity, are you measuring CBTO or CBTO differences with your loaded ammo?
So Ive experienced this once with my Forster seating die. I looked up my notes on this....
Forster directly addresses the issue here:
Preview:
Forster directly addresses the issue here:
Preview:
Here is where I learned to have Forster make you a custom seating stem to your exact bullet.
www.forsterproducts.com
Custom Machining Services
Custom Machining to Your Specifications Allow 3-4 weeks delivery for Collets, Neck Reamers, Outside Neck Turner Pilots; 2 weeks for Case Trimmer pilots. Case Trimmer...
www.forsterproducts.com
it was a couple years ago when I had this same issue and I wound up just going back to my Redding seating die. I was frustrated spending the money on a Forster die to learn I needed to spend more money to customize the stem and for only one bullet profile... when a cheap Redding die seats several bullets without any mark.
I was not getting any unusually heavy neck tension, -.002-.003" is normal and will not leave a seating stem mark. Im not saying Forster dies arent worth it, but they should put this info on the dies page when its purchased.
I was not getting any unusually heavy neck tension, -.002-.003" is normal and will not leave a seating stem mark. Im not saying Forster dies arent worth it, but they should put this info on the dies page when its purchased.
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
I like Forster's answer above,, seems correct in every regard.
But I notice their stem contact point is relatively high on the bullet nose.
This would aggravate the potential, as it increases wedging with a given force.
Aside from a ring, which affects drag/stability, it also messes with consistent seating depth.
I prefer stem contact lower on the ogive, which I get from Wilson dies.
But I notice their stem contact point is relatively high on the bullet nose.
This would aggravate the potential, as it increases wedging with a given force.
Aside from a ring, which affects drag/stability, it also messes with consistent seating depth.
I prefer stem contact lower on the ogive, which I get from Wilson dies.
MagnumManiac
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 25, 2008
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- 5,596
There are several die types/brands that have this issue, not just Forster.
I use both Forster and Redding micrometer seating dies, both have issues with leaving rings on bullets, both have options for VLD type stems that MAY work with YOUR bullet. This is not guaranteed.
I found buying both standard and VLD was hit and miss, so what I have done is roughen up the inside of the seater, turn the inside edge off on a 45° then fill with Devcon 10110 and wax a bullet and place it in the stem until it stops using the seater die as a guide then let it sit for 48 hours. The stem is now a custom fit for THAT bullet. Have tried turning new one's myself, and it is difficult getting the ojive position exactly where you want it without CNC programming to help, very time consuming measuring bullets and writing CNC programs, which is why a stem just has a taper at whatever angle they think will do the job.
Cheers.
I use both Forster and Redding micrometer seating dies, both have issues with leaving rings on bullets, both have options for VLD type stems that MAY work with YOUR bullet. This is not guaranteed.
I found buying both standard and VLD was hit and miss, so what I have done is roughen up the inside of the seater, turn the inside edge off on a 45° then fill with Devcon 10110 and wax a bullet and place it in the stem until it stops using the seater die as a guide then let it sit for 48 hours. The stem is now a custom fit for THAT bullet. Have tried turning new one's myself, and it is difficult getting the ojive position exactly where you want it without CNC programming to help, very time consuming measuring bullets and writing CNC programs, which is why a stem just has a taper at whatever angle they think will do the job.
Cheers.
Forster micrometer seater is garbage. The seating stem is weak and easily flares out and causes non-stop issues.
Get a redding or Wilson micrometer seater
Get a redding or Wilson micrometer seater
I think I might have figured it out. I went based off a YouTube video for s1 full length Redding dies. They took the rod out and just put the bushing in, so I did that. Like I said, I'm no reloading expert. I read the actual direction and put the rod back in after removing the pin and full length sized again. The issue went seems to have gone away. The Forster was still definitely more fussy than the rcbs as far as the dent on the bullet when tension was higher, but i seated a few rounds after full sizing with the bushing and then using the expander mandrel. It wasn't leaving anymore marks. I'm hopefully in the clear now. Thanks again for all the help!
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
That's a potential I forgot to mention with stems contacting high on bullet noses.
I've also done epoxy filling to fit VLDs with standard stems (drilled deeper). Spreads the force over more contact area.
No rings or meplat damage with that.
This may help with Forsters
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KsKevin
Well-Known Member
Your loaded neck diameter vs prepped brass neck diameters seem good at 0.002" difference. Make sure you've chamfered the inside mouth of your brass. Is your brass annealed as if it's been fired several times and work hardened this could be your issue.
I also agree with Mikecr's comment about how high your stem is hitting on the bullet and prefer a stem sized to hit as low on the bullet as possible (David Tubb talks about this as well in some of his videos and has found much lower run-outs as well when hitting lower on the ogive). I've also had to polish the very tip of some stems as they seem to 'grab' the bullet and hang on a bit as I lower the ram after seating (I've also found success in dipping the stem in my powdered graphite neck lube)….have to do this very carefully and minimally as you don't want to cause your stem to get out of concentricity.
I also agree with Mikecr's comment about how high your stem is hitting on the bullet and prefer a stem sized to hit as low on the bullet as possible (David Tubb talks about this as well in some of his videos and has found much lower run-outs as well when hitting lower on the ogive). I've also had to polish the very tip of some stems as they seem to 'grab' the bullet and hang on a bit as I lower the ram after seating (I've also found success in dipping the stem in my powdered graphite neck lube)….have to do this very carefully and minimally as you don't want to cause your stem to get out of concentricity.
