Question on Hornady Dies...

pjosh6

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Nov 9, 2011
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Hey guys I have been slowly learning how to reload for my .243 and 300 wm over the past year and am having trouble with a new set of Hornady New Deminsion dies for my 300. I also have a set of RCBS dies that I had my first stuck case afer reloading a few hundred but i changed to One Shot spray and first stuck case. Anyways, I bought this Hornady set and when sizing i raise the press arm up and its REALLY tough to get the die to let got of the case. I am using the Lee lubricant and am not using too much or too little I believe. I think the die is just junk. Any one have any ideas? or should i just get rid of the dies and wait for the RCBS dies to come back. They were good until i used the One Shot spray.
 
I stuck several pieces of brass in Redding, RCBS, and Lee dies while using One-Shot. I searched this forum and switched to Imperial Sizing and haven't stuck one since. I still use One-Shot for my Sig but quit using it for any of my rifles.
 
I have 3 sets of the new dimension dies. I admit that they do take a little getting used to when you first set them up, but they are NOT junk. You did not say, but I hope that you DO lube the INSIDE of the neck, as well as the body. I use IMPERIAL DIE WAX, for inside and outside lube. What I do is to take a bore mop, and saturate it with lube, and just before resizing, run it through the inside . After a few runs, it seems although the expander ball gets seasoned with the lube, and I never get stuck. Now, on the other hand, if you are dealing with multiple-fired brass, the necks may be getting work hardened. That is a whole new story and cure. ( annealing). Let's assume it is not, and the problem is lubrication. Hope this helps. AIM SMALL! MISS SMALL. :Dgun)7 STW.
 
I do lube the inside also and it seems the expander ball gets stuck when coming up. The brass is all only like 2-3 times fired. I tried some of the brass that is only onces fired and same results. Am i not adjusting the die correctly maybe? I adjusted the die as per the instructions and seems the same.
 
Sticking cases and expander drag are totally different things but lube fixes both.

A sizer die is a simple steel tube, there is no way to adjust it so cases won't stick. A stuck case is due to insufficent lube near the head where the brass is thick and hard to squeeze down.
 
I have several Hornady ND die sets along with other brands (Redding, RCBS and Wilson). When I get in trouble with sticking dies and/or the expander ball dragging heavily with the ND dies, the problem has been one or more of the following:

A) Not enough lube particularly around the body close to the base. I use Hornady Unique most of the time. It's similar to Imperial. If you clean your brass before sizing and prepping as I do, the method of cleaning will make a difference in the effort needed to run the case through the die. If you tumble with corn cob or walnut shell, less effort is usually required. If you use a ultrasonic or any other "wet" cleaning, more effort is usually needed to run the case through the die. The reason appears to be the wet methods remove all residual oil, grease, dust, burned powder ect. making the job of applying sizing lube that more important. The dry methods clean and shine the brass but do leave a thin film behind.

B) The Die needs to be cleaned. Take it apart and clean it with brake cleaner and 0000 steel wool. Lube the body and expander with some sizing wax before reassembling.

C) The expander is loose on the spindle. With my .223 die, the expander will loosen occasionally and once it's pressed into the case, it can be a bear to get back out with out ripping the head off the case. This usually happens when I'm in the middle of a large batch of cartridges and it works loose.

One thing I did a while back, to the expanders was polish them with some 600 and 800 wet/dry paper and then buff them briefly on a buffing wheel. Just the leading and trailing edges with the paper so as not to change the diameter. They seem to work smoother since then.

just my experience and $.02. hope it helps
 
Imperial for me. I have 3 sets of Hornady dies, I like the tapered expander ball but the love stops there. I have come to greatly appreciate Forster, Lyman and Redding dies over all the rest.

A die adjustment tip - lube a case and run it up into your die before you lock the die down to the press. This allows for axial alignment of the shell holder, case, and die. Also, brush out the inside of the case neck to get rid of the crud. A good brushing will eliminate having to lube the inside of the case neck. I don't like a "wet" lube on the inside of the neck and will sometimes use powdered graphite poured over #9 shot in a small container as the lube.

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In case you're wondering, I use the flat side of the vibrating arm on electric tooth brush to settle powder when doing compressed loads. I run it up and down the side of the case.
 
Ditto Wile e coyote, he is spot on, clean the dies good and lubricate them and don't be scared to use case lube on the cases liberally except on the shoulder. I own several sets of ND dies and they are as good as any other dies- love the oval shaped expanders, easier on the case necks.
FE
 
Hornady One Shot lube works WHEN USED RIGHT. I found out the hard way also with a stuck case with that lube. I have found that you have to spray the cases down real good from a couple directions wile getting the case mouths as well, and the most important part is you HAVE to let the lube dry. If you try to size a case without it being dry it will get stuck.
I switched to Hornady wax (I dont know what its called of hand) and it works sooooo much better and easier.
The one shot will work fine but remember to shake the can super good and be sure to let the cases sit for about 5 min before sizing
 
I prefer an RCBS lube pad and Lee paste. The Lee paste dries, but it still lubricates properly. I lube inside the neck and of course the outside of the case. I prefer the Lee paste because I do not want any chance of powder contamination due to case lube inside the neck. I may be a little paranoid, but so far it has worked well for me for the last 20 years. After they are sized you can take a cloth and wipe off the dry white paste, which is kind of like car wax after it dries.

Gary
 
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