purpledragon
Well-Known Member
This is some Lake City 300 Blackout brass, with some fouled up looking primer pockets.........
OK, Fellas, tell me what we have here, and what to do with um???
- Thread starter purpledragon
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How many out of the lot are like that? From a vendor or individual?
They're from Top brass. 228 out of 500 were like that
Talked to the owner he sent me a free bag and all were still fouled in the pocket. Some are regular primer pockets the rest are like this
waspocrew
Well-Known Member
I bought some 556 from top brass and some of the primer pockets looked similar. I think they're using a chamfer tool to try and take the crimp out of the primer pocket. They're not pretty, but mine seemed to hold the primers fine. You could try to clean them up with a primer crimp removal tool. Have you tried priming some of those cases? If so, how do they feel while seating?
I have not. Didn't feel too comfortable without asking
QuietTexan
Well-Known Member
Looks like they cut out a crimp?
It's a 300 BLK, if it holds primers go ahead and run it.
It's a 300 BLK, if it holds primers go ahead and run it.
Use a proper crimp remover and shoot them.
mtwarych
Well-Known Member
Just use your run of the mill knurler, the same one you chamfer the inside of the neck of the brass.
Just remove the old crimps, don't cut much more than just the crimp and women will want you and men will want to be you.
I fully understand the want to use a primer pocket swage to swage the crimp back into the case head and I have a set made by RCBS but it's just too much of a pain in my pattootie.
Just remove the old crimps, don't cut much more than just the crimp and women will want you and men will want to be you.
I fully understand the want to use a primer pocket swage to swage the crimp back into the case head and I have a set made by RCBS but it's just too much of a pain in my pattootie.
I swage all mine with my RCBS swager. I'm Sure it doesn't matter, but since I anneal all my brass, i don't have to toss brass till the primer pockets get loose. I feel that removing metal from that area only makes them get loose sooner. I have not tested to confirm this assumption.
BTW If you reload 556 and/or 300BO on a progressive press I HIGHLY recommend you find a way to keep unswaged brass out of your press. I mark my brass heads with a colored sharpie after they come off the press before boxing them up. Later I use the mark to sort them when I get home. You gotta be care because more than once somebody else's stray piece of unswaged range brass ended up in my bag after policing up brass after a range session. If a piece
of unswaged brass makes it into your progressive… it will ruin your day.
BTW If you reload 556 and/or 300BO on a progressive press I HIGHLY recommend you find a way to keep unswaged brass out of your press. I mark my brass heads with a colored sharpie after they come off the press before boxing them up. Later I use the mark to sort them when I get home. You gotta be care because more than once somebody else's stray piece of unswaged range brass ended up in my bag after policing up brass after a range session. If a piece
of unswaged brass makes it into your progressive… it will ruin your day.
PApa Black
Well-Known Member
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- May 23, 2012
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Pdyson: How do yo anneal your brass? I'm looking into starting that on my brass.
I'm using an Annealeze flame annealer. It works well with most cases. However I have issues with large batches of short cases like the .222. The neck is so close to the plastic wheel the heat build up can melt the wheel causing the cases to stick. I cut a case in half to shield the wheel from the flame and it's working well. However, I'm still saving up for an Amp annealer.
