In Eric Cortina's video on setting up sizing die. He says to strip your bolt of the ejector so there's no pressure from it. Then he says his bolt doesn't have one? How does he pull the brass from the chamber after shooting? Please explain this to me.
No ejector on bolt?
- Thread starter Nuclear Worker
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WeiserBucks
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Controlled round feed.
Beat me to it. Also, the extractor is the critial part. You can always pull the case out by hand once extracted.
You are confusing the ejector and extractor. Extractor pulls case from chamber. Ejector kicks it out the ejection port. I left ejectors out of mine so i can just grab it and pull it out while its held by the bolt.
Thank you for the reply. So on my Big Horn action which is a controlled round feed. There's nothing for me to remove except the firing pin ? I wouldn't have to remove the extractor to set up my full length sizing die like Eric does in his video correct?
Sounds correct to me.
Thank you so much for your help. I am still really new to this reloading game and have no one to help me.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
I tell people at times I excell at ignorance. And it looks like this time it's ignorant prejudice.
I didn't have to take out an extractor or an ejector or a firing pin to set up my loading dies. What am I missing?
P.S.
I don't know how to take out the firing pin.
I didn't have to take out an extractor or an ejector or a firing pin to set up my loading dies. What am I missing?
P.S.
I don't know how to take out the firing pin.
You are not missing anything. There are more than one ways to skin a cat. I just followed the driections that came with my dies. I never follow E.C. anyways.
If you choose to take all the pieces out, you may have no resistance on bolt close. You could then "feel" the case shoulder hitting the chamber and adj the seating die accordingly. I have resistance with new brass and a disassembled bolt so it doesn't work as well for me. I just run the shoulder thru a wax candle flame and chamber the brass, contact is easily seen. I then measure the case and have a reference dim for base to shoulder datum for setback.
Rich Coyle
Well-Known Member
Oh. I measure a few fired cases and get an idea from there. The I set the full length die too long and sorta sneak up on no resistance bolt closing. For normal target or hunting I will take anything from .0000" to -.0015". Anything longer is used for foulers after cleaning.
I discovered if one is +.0005" there is resistance.
I discovered if one is +.0005" there is resistance.
Lefty7mmstw
Well-Known Member
some guys just make things harder than they have to be. WB and Rich are pretty much spot on. I've never taken a rifle apart unless I'm installing something on it or she's filthy and I need to for cleaning...
Just keep in mind that some of this "youtube" guys make their money buy selling ideas. Someone decided that if "thats what I do to find the lands, taking the ejector out" why not sell the idea to adjust my seating dies. I take a lot of this things with a "shovel" of salt, not a teaspoon. There are some other well known people that I reach out to and they are always willing to help/ealpin/guide, and NO egos involved. MHO
As far as setting my sizing dies, I have followed the manufacturers directions since 1986. I started with Belted magnums. I did buy the Larry Willis Collet for those, and have never had to use it. So, keeping it simple has worked for me.
Axl
Well-Known Member
I always strip the bolt on a new rifle I am doing load development. It takes me a couple minutes to pull the ejector and firing pin. I leave the ejector out until I am done with load development. For 2 different measurements: First one is to establish C.O.L.- where the ogive touches the lands. It is the most accurate and repeatable way to measure this.
Second to set shoulder bump on my size die. Some new brass needs the shoulder set back a bit, and once fired it may not need setting back for 3 or 4 firings. Your own chamber is the most accurate measuring device you have. This will give you accurate ammo, without working the brass too much. I often see advice to "bump the shoulder .002" this is an arbitrary measurement not based on your chamber and length of your brass.
Alex Wheeler has the videos posted on his site, he makes no money from them, and he knows something about making guns shoot.
Second to set shoulder bump on my size die. Some new brass needs the shoulder set back a bit, and once fired it may not need setting back for 3 or 4 firings. Your own chamber is the most accurate measuring device you have. This will give you accurate ammo, without working the brass too much. I often see advice to "bump the shoulder .002" this is an arbitrary measurement not based on your chamber and length of your brass.
Alex Wheeler has the videos posted on his site, he makes no money from them, and he knows something about making guns shoot.
