Newbie Scope Mount Questions

Discussion in 'The Basics, Starting Out' started by nksmfamjp, Feb 10, 2006.

  1. nksmfamjp

    nksmfamjp Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    51
    Joined:
    Jan 5, 2004
    Ok, I've decided to do it this year. I'm going to put together a good long range hunting rifle using a Savage 12BVSS 300WSM.

    So for scope mounting. . .First, my plan is to bed the base, buy top quality rings and bases and forget the lapping. it is my belief that lapping is less accurate than the original machining of the original parts. Is this good thinking?

    Next, I want to use a 1 pc picatinny base for strength/straightness of mounting and because it should be accurate enough to allow scope removal with just a quick sight in. Has this been your experience?

    Last, I'm looking at Warne, Farrell G Force, TPS bases with matching manufacturer's rings. I think my preference is TPS due to price, details of their parts on their web site, and real picatinney dimensions. Any opinions of any of these makers good or bad? BO is just too much money!

    Last, recticle alignment. I've been sold on the deadeye precision scope leveler, i think, but is there something else as good or better?

    Oops, one more. . .Do you use one of the anti-cant bubble levels for checking your hold on your gun? If so, which one? If I use the short one, can I check it without shifting the gun? I would prefer that one as it's scope ring is AL instead of plastic.

    BTW. . .Anything good or bad to say from Super Sniper owners?

    Oh yea, I forgot one more. . .I'm considering a 20 MOA base to put me more in the center of the scopes adjustments at long range to allow me to dial windage instead of dialing the elevation clear to the top and thenm having no windage. I've read that 20 MOA bases will cause your cheekweld to be too high, on a normal rifle, even with only medium rings. Is this true? 20 MOA is just so small over the length of the scope, I doubt I would notice at all! Will I notice my head position being higher or too high?
     
  2. arthurj

    arthurj Well-Known Member

    Messages:
    460
    Joined:
    Jan 29, 2005
    Some people will say it isn't necessary to bed the base or lap the rings and others like to be sure there is no stress in the mounting system. I would think that if you didn't lap the rings, you would defeat the whole purpose of bedding the base. Rings may be machined very well but you will get a much better fit after lapping them.
    I've never used the scope leveler. I just level the scope from the top of the turret, which has worked well for me. You can also draw a vertical line on a target and line the crosshair up with that. You definitely will need the anticant device, if your crosshair is not vertical shot to shot you will be all over the place. Even if its not perfectly plumb, just keeping it consistant from shot to shot will allow you to shoot good groups.
     

  3. royinidaho

    royinidaho Writers Guild

    Messages:
    8,853
    Joined:
    Jan 20, 2004
    [ QUOTE ]
    So for scope mounting. . .First, my plan is to bed the base, buy top quality rings and bases and forget the lapping. Is this good thinking?

    <font color="blue"> I would give strong consideration to Burris Signature rings. The inserts compensate for a lot of variables. They are a good thing. A lot of the LRH people use them. Plus with the proper insert selection/arrangement you can achieve the 20MOA taper. </font>


    Next, I want to use a 1 pc picatinny base for strength/straightness of mounting and because it should be accurate enough to allow scope removal with just a quick sight in. <font color="blue">No comment re: this. </font>

    Last, I'm looking at Warne, Farrell G Force, TPS bases with matching manufacturer's rings. I think my preference is TPS due to price, details of their parts on their web site, and real picatinney dimensions. Any opinions of any of these makers good or bad? BO is just too much money!<font color="blue"> What I said above </font>

    Last, recticle alignment. I've been sold on the deadeye precision scope leveler, i think, but is there something else as good or better? <font color="blue">For the distances you are able to shoot w/the WSM the level on the action is plenty good. Why not consider a laser level(10 bucks or so) and projects a nice fine line. Have used it with good success. </font>

    Oops, one more. . .Do you use one of the anti-cant bubble levels for checking your hold on your gun? If so, which one? If I use the short one, can I check it without shifting the gun? I would prefer that one as it's scope ring is AL instead of plastic.<font color="blue">I have one made by a fella on this board, though he ran out of rings... Do a search on Fiftydriver, he uses one that is a flip up arrangement. Don't know the name but looks good. </font>

    BTW. . .Anything good or bad to say from Super Sniper owners?<font color="blue"> Have one. Love it. Will get another. But, remember they are fixed power which limits their application a bit. </font>

    Oh yea, I forgot one more. . .I'm considering a 20 MOA base to put me more in the center of the scopes adjustments at long range to allow me to dial windage instead of dialing the elevation clear to the top and thenm having no windage. <font color="blue">See Burris Sig. comment. I wouldn't worry about cheek weld quite yet. </font>

    [/ QUOTE ]

    With the $ savings you can add to glass quality.