New to reloading

[Vossman5]

Hi everyone, I'm new to reloading, as many are in this time. Been picking up components when I can find them. Still don't have much, but getting there.
I ended up getting a pretty good deal on a hornady lnl ap press that I'll set up and use when I get to that point. Right now I need more trigger time than ammo, both are in scarce supply.
My question is, for anyone who's used it, how accurate is the load measure that comes with, or how hard would it be to set it up using a chargemaster or automatic load charger?
I have access to use my LGS turret press if I want, but then I need to bring everything there instead of at my place. I'll start doing it there until I have more knowledge, and probably be loading his stuff for him just for practice.

Any help or advice is appreciated

 

[cjuve]

I do all my bolt gun powder charges using a powder throw, balance beam and trickler. I have never seen the need on my precision reloads to automate anything. The blasting ammo is a different story.

 

[Tiny Tim]

^^^^This

Precision ammo takes time and meticulous attention. "Blasting Ammo" can simply be "thrown". Some powders meter better than others and some throwers simply do better than others. Helping out at your LGS will teach invaluable lessons! Enjoy the process.

 

[338 dude]

Hi everyone, I'm new to reloading, as many are in this time. Been picking up components when I can find them. Still don't have much, but getting there.
I ended up getting a pretty good deal on a hornady lnl ap press that I'll set up and use when I get to that point. Right now I need more trigger time than ammo, both are in scarce supply.
My question is, for anyone who's used it, how accurate is the load measure that comes with, or how hard would it be to set it up using a chargemaster or automatic load charger?
I have access to use my LGS turret press if I want, but then I need to bring everything there instead of at my place. I'll start doing it there until I have more knowledge, and probably be loading his stuff for him just for practice.

Any help or advice is appreciated

I have a charge master I've used it for many years and I love it although I do double check my charges on another scale to verify weight . reloading at your local gun store would be a good idea if they have a press and you do that there I'm sure someone will mentor you which is always good when starting out

 

[Vossman5]

I do all my bolt gun powder charges using a powder throw, balance beam and trickler. I have never seen the need on my precision reloads to automate anything. The blasting ammo is a different story.

I understand this, and I'd prefer to have more consistent ammo, that's why I asked if there was a way to use a different powder thrower/dispenser on the LNL that I picked up. I might get a turret instead and do every stage 1 at a time, shell plates vs shell holders ends up being an extra $100 for the ones I need.
I also need all the dies yet 2 small base unless you can set up a FL to work in autos, and 2 FL plus the pistols
Super precise rounds aren't of necessity now because the ranges I shoot at the difference of .3 grains in a rifle round which I assume factory rounds are at, would be fine. I need to work on my shooting technique/ skill more than anything right now.

 

[Tiny Tim]

Most powder measures will get you close to the .3 grain range if not using large kernel powders, but consistency is paramount; same volume of powder in the hopper, same throw force, etc... If you constantly vibrate the powder in the canister/hopper, charges will tend to compress to a point. Again, you might chase your tail abit until you find what ultimately works for you. Just stay away from max charge weights.

 

[cjuve]

I am not all to familiar with the LNL options but there may be a separate powder drop funnel that you can add to replace the powder throw station so that you can manually charge cases. Also, as to the accuracy of powder throws it really varies depending on what type of powder you use, ball powders are known to meter very consistently and most of the time I expect to see about .2gr difference between charges that are thrown, maybe a little less. Stick powders may or may not meter consistently depending on size. I use mostly ball powders in my progressive presses to ensure consistency.

 

[LVJ76]

I understand this, and I'd prefer to have more consistent ammo, that's why I asked if there was a way to use a different powder thrower/dispenser on the LNL that I picked up. I might get a turret instead and do every stage 1 at a time, shell plates vs shell holders ends up being an extra $100 for the ones I need.
I also need all the dies yet 2 small base unless you can set up a FL to work in autos, and 2 FL plus the pistols
Super precise rounds aren't of necessity now because the ranges I shoot at the difference of .3 grains in a rifle round which I assume factory rounds are at, would be fine. I need to work on my shooting technique/ skill more than anything right now.

Ive' been using an RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure manual dispenser similar to the one pictured below, except mine is a few decades old.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Hunting,Fishing,Fly Fishing,Sporting Goods,Optics,Clothing,Archery,Reloading,Ammunition,Shooting,Camping

lbsportinggoods.com

I use two separate digital powder scales to make sure I have the right weight and this satisfies my OCD

0.3gr differences between rounds will make a difference on accuracy, especially if you plan on shooting long range. Not much variance at 100 yds but at 500 yds or more it will matter.

 

[74honker]

I understand this, and I'd prefer to have more consistent ammo, that's why I asked if there was a way to use a different powder thrower/dispenser on the LNL that I picked up. I might get a turret instead and do every stage 1 at a time, shell plates vs shell holders ends up being an extra $100 for the ones I need.
I also need all the dies yet 2 small base unless you can set up a FL to work in autos, and 2 FL plus the pistols
Super precise rounds aren't of necessity now because the ranges I shoot at the difference of .3 grains in a rifle round which I assume factory rounds are at, would be fine. I need to work on my shooting technique/ skill more than anything right now.

I don't want to make your head spin so sorry if I do but IMHO, if you are planning to load for an AR, you most likely DO NOT need small base dies. When I was just starting out, a salsman said that's what I needed. After countless rounds and chasing my tail with brass issues, did alot of research and found that when using small base dies almost always undersize the brass to the point it causes case head separations and show all sorts of pressure related issues and make you think you're doing something wrong when in fact it's just the dies. I spoke with a tech rep at Redding at great length about this and he even said that though they make them, they don't necessarily recommend them. I went to a regular set of .223 dies and got them set up properly and all my issues went away. I'm not saying the small base stuff is all bad I'm just saying they didn't work for me or anything I was making ammo for with them. It was just a really hard lesson when I was just getting started learning and being very cautious and meticulous with all my processes and then having to sort out an issue that was created by equipment that you didn't even realize was doing it.

 

[Vossman5]

Ive' been using an RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure manual dispenser similar to the one pictured below, except mine is a few decades old.

RCBS Uniflow Powder Measure

Hunting,Fishing,Fly Fishing,Sporting Goods,Optics,Clothing,Archery,Reloading,Ammunition,Shooting,Camping

lbsportinggoods.com

I use two separate digital powder scales to make sure I have the right weight and this satisfies my OCD

0.3gr differences between rounds will make a difference on accuracy, especially if you plan on shooting long range. Not much variance at 100 yds but at 500 yds or more it will matter.

For me, long range will be maybe 300yds, I'm not confident in my skill enough to go past that, it may be my rifle or ammo, older early 1990s browning BAR in 30-06, and not sure what it's zeroed at, grandpa can't remember 150 or 165gr. I'm about a 2" shooter at 100yds right now good enough to take a deer

 

[Vossman5]

I don't want to make your head spin so sorry if I do but IMHO, if you are planning to load for an AR, you most likely DO NOT need small base dies. When I was just starting out, a salsman said that's what I needed. After countless rounds and chasing my tail with brass issues, did alot of research and found that when using small base dies almost always undersize the brass to the point it causes case head separations and show all sorts of pressure related issues and make you think you're doing something wrong when in fact it's just the dies. I spoke with a tech rep at Redding at great length about this and he even said that though they make them, they don't necessarily recommend them. I went to a regular set of .223 dies and got them set up properly and all my issues went away. I'm not saying the small base stuff is all bad I'm just saying they didn't work for me or anything I was making ammo for with them. It was just a really hard lesson when I was just getting started learning and being very cautious and meticulous with all my processes and then having to sort out an issue that was created by equipment that you didn't even realize was doing it.

That's good to know, I was told that I needed small base dies for autos, from LGS and others, maybe they work for them who knows. But knowing that a regular set of FL dies will work is beneficial

 

[bullet man]

the only time u need the small base dies are when you are loading military brass for a bolt action I loaded some for my ar and a friend ran out but my ammo wouldn't chamber well in a Remington bolt action they have a tighter chamber than an ar does

 

[30BR]

I'm not saying the small base stuff is all bad I'm just saying they didn't work for me or anything I was making ammo for with them. It was just a really hard lesson when I was just getting started learning and being very cautious and meticulous with all my processes and then having to sort out an issue that was created by equipment that you didn't even realize was doing it.

Small base dies are there for guys like me who would pick up range brass from ranges where full auto fire was allowed. Cases from weapons fired in full auto from an open bolt tend to bulge a tad. So, if you're not using pick-up brass or brass sold as-is in bulk, you shouldn't need a small base die.

 

[Black Tail Hunter]

the only time u need the small base dies are when you are loading military brass for a bolt action I loaded some for my ar and a friend ran out but my ammo wouldn't chamber well in a Remington bolt action they have a tighter chamber than an ar does

I think you may have that backward. Here is the explanation of what small base dies are used for off midsouth shooter site:

What is a small base sizing die?
A Small Base sizing die is a little tighter in the web area than a Full Length Sizer. Semi Auto, pump and lever action rifles tend to have tighter chambers than bolt action rifles, thus requiring the tighter small base sizer.