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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
New To Reloading Please Help!
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<blockquote data-quote="epoletna" data-source="post: 2953628" data-attributes="member: 87371"><p>GBA 1776:</p><p></p><p>Now that I have a little free time, I wanted to say a little about neck wall thickness and crimping.</p><p></p><p>You will recognize that if you run a case into a full length sizing die then pull it back over a sizing button to set the inside diameter, your bullet will have the same resistance to starting to leave the case if the brass is consistently flexible (which is why people anneal). Some things can influence the resistance to starting down the barrel: different wall thickness (which is why bench rest shooters turn the outside of the neck after sizing the inside uniformly. I do that on my bench rest cases; you don't want to do it on your .223s unless you shoot bench rest. Or are enormously compulsive..</p><p></p><p>Then there's the amount of crimp. As someone has said above, you probably don't need to crimp a .223 unless you have bullets creeping out of the case on recoil. But if you do decide to crimp, remember that case length and nect thickness will affect crimp resistance, because the further the case goes into a crimping die, the stronger the crimp. So if your cases are not the same length, or with the same neck thickness, you'll have different release pressure. </p><p></p><p>About now you're beginning to see why we call this a rabbit hole you're entering. </p><p></p><p>And then there's the distance the bullet has to "jump" before it hits the rifling. And uniforming your flash holes. And of course uniformity of lot numbers of powder, primers and bullets. And are your bullets turned out by a large company (I know you just got a bunch of Hornady bullets) or a boutique bullet maker who turns out bullets made from unicorn horn. And so on and so on. </p><p></p><p>So I repeat what I said previously: good luck!</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="epoletna, post: 2953628, member: 87371"] GBA 1776: Now that I have a little free time, I wanted to say a little about neck wall thickness and crimping. You will recognize that if you run a case into a full length sizing die then pull it back over a sizing button to set the inside diameter, your bullet will have the same resistance to starting to leave the case if the brass is consistently flexible (which is why people anneal). Some things can influence the resistance to starting down the barrel: different wall thickness (which is why bench rest shooters turn the outside of the neck after sizing the inside uniformly. I do that on my bench rest cases; you don't want to do it on your .223s unless you shoot bench rest. Or are enormously compulsive.. Then there's the amount of crimp. As someone has said above, you probably don't need to crimp a .223 unless you have bullets creeping out of the case on recoil. But if you do decide to crimp, remember that case length and nect thickness will affect crimp resistance, because the further the case goes into a crimping die, the stronger the crimp. So if your cases are not the same length, or with the same neck thickness, you'll have different release pressure. About now you're beginning to see why we call this a rabbit hole you're entering. And then there's the distance the bullet has to "jump" before it hits the rifling. And uniforming your flash holes. And of course uniformity of lot numbers of powder, primers and bullets. And are your bullets turned out by a large company (I know you just got a bunch of Hornady bullets) or a boutique bullet maker who turns out bullets made from unicorn horn. And so on and so on. So I repeat what I said previously: good luck! [/QUOTE]
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