When you mount a new scope do you start by turning all the MOA out of the turrets? So you have a base line? And then you would have the full range of adjustments available?
New scope zero question?
- Thread starter Nuclear Worker
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Ckleeves
Well-Known Member
The full range of adjustments really don't do you any good if your not zeroed.
If you put a mirror on the end and let just a little light in and look through the eye piece you can line up the reticles in the mirror. This will give you the "Zero" elevation and wind of the scope itself. You can or not do this. It will just show you where you Scope Zero is to your Turrets.
Then you need to "Zero" your scope to 100 - 200 yds. Once that is done then you can see how much range you have for Elevation/Wind.
JungleShooter
Well-Known Member
Nuclear,
to have the full range of adjustments available you usually need a canted rail (20 or 30 moa) or adjustable rings....
Matthias
to have the full range of adjustments available you usually need a canted rail (20 or 30 moa) or adjustable rings....
Matthias
waveslayer
Well-Known Member
No, zero the scope first and then count how many MOA you have left. Like above get an MOA canted rail, also depending on your rings too. I run a 30 MOA unimount for my longer range rig
Mikecr
Well-Known Member
No, once zero'd, you'll have around 1/2 of your scopes elevation left.
To raise this, people install a biased base (like 20-30moa).
Thanks for replying everyone. What I did was dialed all the MOA out of scope. Then shot at 100 yards. Was 10 inches low . Dialed up 10 MOA spot on done. Didn't sound like anyone does it that way but it worked for me. Did it with a Trijicon first. She shot great considering the center dot on the reticle covered the bullseye. Could cover 5 shot group with quarter. Friend had a Athlon 10-44x56 target scope with very fine crosshairs. Gave me to try it couldn't get it to shoot at all! Dial up 3 MOA would give you 2. Dial left went to the right. Her group with it was 4". I know it's a low cost scope but have read good reviews on it? Any thoughts? Looking at a Mark 5 now.
I will generally bore sight or use a bore sighter(ie. Bushnell, Cabelas) after mounting a scope to get it close prior to going to the range…..And, if the scope was taken off another rifle, and has a zero stop, check it to make sure that I have sufficient turret travel to set my zero without having fiddle with it while shooting…..Particularly with designs that require turret removal to adjust the zero like the Nightforce.
BrentM
Well-Known Member
I bore sight my scope before zero usually. Pull the bolt, look through bore at target, zero cross hair. Usually I do this at 25-50 yards to be as close as possible on first shot. Lots of methods to all this but I waste as little ammo as possible sighting in.
Citified
Well-Known Member
For years I used the sight through the barrel method of bore sighting. Worked ok.
I finally bought a laser bore sighter and made life much easier. Wasn't expensive at all and came with adapters for different calibers. Ultimately, saves precious components during the process.
I finally bought a laser bore sighter and made life much easier. Wasn't expensive at all and came with adapters for different calibers. Ultimately, saves precious components during the process.
center the crosshairs on the adjusters, if bases are windage adjustable do so by looking through bore, then adjust the elevation to center bore. Then if you install a 10 or 20 moa base move the elevation to compensate for that. I try to keep or at least start with adjustments at the center point. I wouldn't start with the adjustments all the way to top or bottom.
JiminAZ
Well-Known Member
OP, how you dial the scope around before you mount it has no effect on your zero.
The scope comes to you from the manufacturer with a built in optical relationship between the reticle and the tube of the scope. This was set at the factory and no amount of dialing will change that available range of adjustment relative to the boreline of the tube of the scope.
The geometry of your mounting system relative to your barrel will determine where in the range of your dials the zero lands. That's why people are telling you about canted mounting systems. The cant tips the scope a preset angle downwards relative to the barrel bore, causing the gun to hit higher (relative to your optic) and making you dial downwards to get your zero. Net result is you end up with more up adjustment available for longer range shooting.
The scope comes to you from the manufacturer with a built in optical relationship between the reticle and the tube of the scope. This was set at the factory and no amount of dialing will change that available range of adjustment relative to the boreline of the tube of the scope.
The geometry of your mounting system relative to your barrel will determine where in the range of your dials the zero lands. That's why people are telling you about canted mounting systems. The cant tips the scope a preset angle downwards relative to the barrel bore, causing the gun to hit higher (relative to your optic) and making you dial downwards to get your zero. Net result is you end up with more up adjustment available for longer range shooting.
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Ckleeves
Well-Known Member
It's always best to turn the scope objective side facing down and first shake the scope real good then turn the windage/election turrets both to squeeze all the moa or mils out. Mils are gonna be a little harder to milk out just because they are a little bigger.
