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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.
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<blockquote data-quote="WRG" data-source="post: 284162" data-attributes="member: 13638"><p>AtownBcat, </p><p> </p><p>Everybody has their own way of working up loads and I'm no different. How I do it is, I seat the bullets OAL at max SAMMI spec while trying to find a powder that will give me a grouping that is 1.5" CTC "center to center" or better. I will choose three powders that are known to perform best for the caliber and bullet weight that I'm working with. In the case of the 300wm IMR4831, RL-22, RL-19 all will do the job as well as many others but nine times out of ten your rifle will prefer one better over the others. Keeping in mind the bullets BC and the volocity needed for that bullet to perform is key. Like others have said you really need to develope loads over a chronograph or your just guessing and wasting time & money. If it's at all possible you may want to try WLRM primers along side those BR2 your using. I have had much better velocity SD/ES with the WLRM primers in my 300wm. Once I have found a powder that is exceptable then I will work on the seating depth. But first you will need to figure out your rifles free bore before hand so you know your limit and to make sure you can chamber the round from the mag. </p><p> </p><p>While I had the bullet seated at SAMMI spec I took a "ojive measurement" for future referance. I then take that measurement and move the bullet 0.010 closer to the lands until it starts to group tighter "if they will". If they won't that rifle won't shoot those bullets and you need to move on to another bullet. I find more often that not that a ballistic tip / boat tail bullet will shoot better for obvious reasons but you also have to consider the game you will be hunting. If this is a Whitetail load your working up the BTBT will work perfectly. I shoot only Barnes TTSX or Nosler BT bullets.</p><p> </p><p>Are these the only bullets you have shot through this barrel and did it get a proper break in? </p><p> </p><p>All new barrels need to be "home registered" if it is to shoot right for the life of the barrel! If you only have 50 - 75 rounds through it I would do a proper break-in procedure with some cheap copper jacketed bullets first. As far as cleaning goes Hopps#9 does not clean moly or copper from a barrel it cleans carbon only! You need to use a solvent that does. Moly magic made by Bore tech will do the job. A good copper cleaner is Sweets. Clean the barrel totally free of moly, carbon and any copper before starting the break-in for best results. Like johnnyK said some barrels may require 100 to as many as 200 rounds before they settle in. Once the copper fouling drops off your barrel should be properly broken in.</p><p> </p><p>Hope this helps</p><p> </p><p>WRG</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="WRG, post: 284162, member: 13638"] AtownBcat, Everybody has their own way of working up loads and I'm no different. How I do it is, I seat the bullets OAL at max SAMMI spec while trying to find a powder that will give me a grouping that is 1.5" CTC "center to center" or better. I will choose three powders that are known to perform best for the caliber and bullet weight that I'm working with. In the case of the 300wm IMR4831, RL-22, RL-19 all will do the job as well as many others but nine times out of ten your rifle will prefer one better over the others. Keeping in mind the bullets BC and the volocity needed for that bullet to perform is key. Like others have said you really need to develope loads over a chronograph or your just guessing and wasting time & money. If it's at all possible you may want to try WLRM primers along side those BR2 your using. I have had much better velocity SD/ES with the WLRM primers in my 300wm. Once I have found a powder that is exceptable then I will work on the seating depth. But first you will need to figure out your rifles free bore before hand so you know your limit and to make sure you can chamber the round from the mag. While I had the bullet seated at SAMMI spec I took a "ojive measurement" for future referance. I then take that measurement and move the bullet 0.010 closer to the lands until it starts to group tighter "if they will". If they won't that rifle won't shoot those bullets and you need to move on to another bullet. I find more often that not that a ballistic tip / boat tail bullet will shoot better for obvious reasons but you also have to consider the game you will be hunting. If this is a Whitetail load your working up the BTBT will work perfectly. I shoot only Barnes TTSX or Nosler BT bullets. Are these the only bullets you have shot through this barrel and did it get a proper break in? All new barrels need to be "home registered" if it is to shoot right for the life of the barrel! If you only have 50 - 75 rounds through it I would do a proper break-in procedure with some cheap copper jacketed bullets first. As far as cleaning goes Hopps#9 does not clean moly or copper from a barrel it cleans carbon only! You need to use a solvent that does. Moly magic made by Bore tech will do the job. A good copper cleaner is Sweets. Clean the barrel totally free of moly, carbon and any copper before starting the break-in for best results. Like johnnyK said some barrels may require 100 to as many as 200 rounds before they settle in. Once the copper fouling drops off your barrel should be properly broken in. Hope this helps WRG [/QUOTE]
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Masters of Reloading......my 300WM is not shooting good.
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