Kodiak brown bear rifle

Thanks, I like winchester's too, I was looking at a sako safari too. Did you have to have the winchester accurized? Is it the controlled round feed?
 
Thanks, I like winchester's too, I was looking at a sako safari too. Did you have to have the winchester accurized? Is it the controlled round feed?

The Sako is a nice rifle for sure. My rifles were bedded- nothing else. The Winchester Safari's are controlled feed. I own two Pre-64 model 70's and the new Safari's are a much nicer rifle.

Here is my collection of Model 70's

 
Sweet, I saw some Safari's on Gunbroker and read the Safari is forged action. I also saw a Super Express and that looked pretty good. I think it will be one or the other though. If you or anyone knows the difference between the Super Express and the Safari, please chime in. I'd guess the Safari is a safer bet as it is well known and in production. I put in a question to a few dealers on Gunbroker so waiting for a response. Are you reloading the swift Aframes or buying the loaded ammo?
 
Sweet, I saw some Safari's on Gunbroker and read the Safari is forged action. I also saw a Super Express and that looked pretty good. I think it will be one or the other though. If you or anyone knows the difference between the Super Express and the Safari, please chime in. I'd guess the Safari is a safer bet as it is well known and in production. I put in a question to a few dealers on Gunbroker so waiting for a response. Are you reloading the swift Aframes or buying the loaded ammo?

I am not sure of all the differences between the Super Express and the Safari; I think the Safari has a thicker stock in the pistol grip and fore-end. I know the Safari only comes in three calibers.

M70 Classic Safari Express v. Classic Super Express | Express Rifles and Big Bores Only | 24hourcampfire

I reload the A-frames- but there is factory ammo loaded with them.
 
I'm going to call Winchester this week. It's got to be controlled round feeding and the Safari looks like the better rifle to me. Thanks
 
I haven't read all 33 pages of replies so hopefully some of this is redundant but here's my three cents:

- figure out likely ranges - is it an early season hunt where you might spot bears 5 miles away, stalk a distance and set up with a nice rest, or in the fall along streambeds in thick cover. This would dictate a lot (caliber, rifle weight, optics, barrel length...)

- assuming you will be guided and the guide will have a defensive/charge stopper I wouldn't go overboard on caliber. The golden rule is shoot the biggest round you can shoot well. My good friend guided on the peninsula for 15 years and has taken several bears. He carried a 340 weatherby.

- it's fun to dream about but if I was in your shoes I think i would build a .378 weatherby improved, all stainless dakota action, composite stock and good muzzle brake. Scope depends on likely rangel Beware some guides dont allow brakes. Not sure there is non-propietary caliber out there that matches the flatness and downrange energy. If you simply cannot learn to handle the recoil I would probably go with 338 Win.

I think most of the guys promoting big bore .416s on up, lever guns and even shotguns are talking about defensive guns and on a guided hunt you shouldn't be put in that situation. Most guys I know that have taken brownies on guided hunts took measured shots.

want a great bear story - google Cindy Rhodes. She's a 4 foot something alaskan native took a huge bear on a full charge with one shot between the eyes with surplus 7x57!

Good luck and be safe.
 
I haven't read all 33 pages of replies so hopefully some of this is redundant but here's my three cents:

- figure out likely ranges - is it an early season hunt where you might spot bears 5 miles away, stalk a distance and set up with a nice rest, or in the fall along streambeds in thick cover. This would dictate a lot (caliber, rifle weight, optics, barrel length...)

- assuming you will be guided and the guide will have a defensive/charge stopper I wouldn't go overboard on caliber. The golden rule is shoot the biggest round you can shoot well. My good friend guided on the peninsula for 15 years and has taken several bears. He carried a 340 weatherby.

- it's fun to dream about but if I was in your shoes I think i would build a .378 weatherby improved, all stainless dakota action, composite stock and good muzzle brake. Scope depends on likely rangel Beware some guides dont allow brakes. Not sure there is non-propietary caliber out there that matches the flatness and downrange energy. If you simply cannot learn to handle the recoil I would probably go with 338 Win.

I think most of the guys promoting big bore .416s on up, lever guns and even shotguns are talking about defensive guns and on a guided hunt you shouldn't be put in that situation. Most guys I know that have taken brownies on guided hunts took measured shots.

want a great bear story - google Cindy Rhodes. She's a 4 foot something alaskan native took a huge bear on a full charge with one shot between the eyes with surplus 7x57!

Good luck and be safe.

In a earlier post I stated that I will now be a part of the outfitters business that I was to hunt with!
My rifle will be a custom RBros rifle in 375 rum designed just for this purpose.
 
Congratulations! I like the 375 RUM. I had a 7lb rem XCR in it with no brake. A real thumper but manageable with a brake. Have you located some ammo or brass? If not let me know I might be able to dig some up.

take care,

Bob
 
Congratulations! I like the 375 RUM. I had a 7lb rem XCR in it with no brake. A real thumper but manageable with a brake. Have you located some ammo or brass? If not let me know I might be able to dig some up.

take care,

Bob

I have a thread in the reloading components section asking for 375 rum brass and 300 grain accubonds.
If you have either of those would be great.
Yes I know that 300 rum brass will work by necking it up but I would like a few hundred with the proper headstamp.
 
I'd go with the 300 A-Frames for chasing bear and look into cutting edge bullets 300 grainer for your long range work since you are getting a 12" twist barrel. You will have to single feed them, but at longer ranges you normally have longer to setup. Loaded rounds would be 3.981" long. Both bullets are virgin copper so fouling shouldn't affect accuracy of each bullet as long as the same powder is used. The only problem may be a big POI shift.

I built a .416-.375 RUM after walking up to my first coastal brown bear I guided. Felt a little under gunned with my 350 Rem Mag loaded with 250 grain Barnes at 2500fps. They are very impressive animals I must admit and your 375 RUM will be some bad medicine.

My .416-.375 RUM throws 400 A-Frames at 2650fps and 340 grain cutting edge bullets (0.780bc) at 3028fps. Interesting thing is when the A-Frames are zeroed at 100 yards the CEB's are 10MOA high making their zero 600 yards.

Be pretty cool if your setup did something similar using these components.

A previous post asked how accurate A-Frames and similar hunting bullets can be so I added a pic. If the rifle is put together right and you find a load the gun likes they can shoot extremely well. On the right is a typical group, if I do my part, with my 1-4 Nightforce at 100 yards.

Reuben
 

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So just to update those who are following this thread.
I will be headed to the south slope of the brooks range to help pack moose out.
Part of Alaska regulations for getting a assistant guide license is 30 days in the field with the outfitter I am working for. I will be there for 4+ weeks helping out and learning.
My 375 rum won't be done in time so I'm taking my 300 rum. Old reliable as my wife has named it.
It is shooting 200 gr. partitions extremely well over 93 grains of reloder 26. Sub half minute. I've mounted a 2.5x10x42 compact Nightforce on it for this trip. Very impressed with this scope by the way.
Anyway things are coming together and I'm looking forward to the next chapter to unfold.
 
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