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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Key Kirby/Fiftydriver how about some V-block info
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<blockquote data-quote=".357Mag" data-source="post: 105779" data-attributes="member: 5868"><p>rrobor -</p><p> After talking w/ Bruce Bbaer over th phone some years back, I made up my own ridiculously low-buck</p><p>barrel-clamping set-up.</p><p></p><p>I shoot a .224" cal " Palma Taper " 28" finished K &amp; P</p><p>1-8 SS barrel.</p><p></p><p>My current rifle started out with the barrel mounted to a Wichita WBR1375 action, all pillar-bedded into a Kelbly Hunter-bech stock.</p><p></p><p>When I kept getting vertical creep in my groups, I went to my new barrel clamping set-up. </p><p></p><p>My clamping arrangmenet consists of 2 plumbing repair plates</p><p>( shaped like a house roof ) that have been double-up.</p><p></p><p>The doubled "v" shaped plates are about 3.75"long,and cad plated it appears.</p><p></p><p>Along each edge , they have 4 total square holes</p><p>( 2 each side ) that accept 1/4" " carriage " type bolts.</p><p></p><p>The carriage bolts of course have a square shank above their threads, which are held in place from rotation by the acepting square holes on the "v" plates.</p><p></p><p>I place the "vee" plates atop the barrel's straight breech section ( mine is long enough to do that ).</p><p></p><p> The barrel sits in an aluminum "I" beam set on its side</p><p>to obtain basically...an "H" beam.</p><p>The barrel is 1.250" diam, so top edges of "H" beam are relieved slightly to "float" my 1.375" diam Wichita.</p><p></p><p>I use 2 doubled bottom plates taken from "U"-bolts</p><p>( 4 pc total ) to provide desired upward clamping action from beneath the bottom of the "H" beam.</p><p>This is accomplished by passing the four carriage bolts</p><p>through the "U" bolt torque plates, and tightening down via correct sized 1/4" self-locking nuts / washers.</p><p></p><p>The beam is 36" long. Forened and buttstock are fashioned from composite deck board materiel, sized to fit me.</p><p></p><p>A rudimentray cheek piece is removable, to allow access for cleaning rod to breech.</p><p></p><p>A slot is cut into bottom cneter web of "H" beam to accept recoil lug. to arrest reward recoil momment.</p><p></p><p>Another slot is cut to allow trigger to pass through.</p><p></p><p>With scope, rings, tapered 20moa base, and simple trigger guard, rifle wiehs in at just past 16lb.</p><p></p><p>Gun shoots SO well, I will never go back too conventional</p><p>bedded varmint rifle again. </p><p></p><p>Got all metal parts for clamping set-up as described form local hardware store. Total cost: around $10.00</p><p></p><p>Best thing I EVER did for my accuracy shooting.</p><p></p><p>Recoil is streight back. Rifle looks novel, however</p><p> " agricultural " it may appear.</p><p></p><p>.357Mag</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE=".357Mag, post: 105779, member: 5868"] rrobor - After talking w/ Bruce Bbaer over th phone some years back, I made up my own ridiculously low-buck barrel-clamping set-up. I shoot a .224" cal " Palma Taper " 28" finished K & P 1-8 SS barrel. My current rifle started out with the barrel mounted to a Wichita WBR1375 action, all pillar-bedded into a Kelbly Hunter-bech stock. When I kept getting vertical creep in my groups, I went to my new barrel clamping set-up. My clamping arrangmenet consists of 2 plumbing repair plates ( shaped like a house roof ) that have been double-up. The doubled "v" shaped plates are about 3.75"long,and cad plated it appears. Along each edge , they have 4 total square holes ( 2 each side ) that accept 1/4" " carriage " type bolts. The carriage bolts of course have a square shank above their threads, which are held in place from rotation by the acepting square holes on the "v" plates. I place the "vee" plates atop the barrel's straight breech section ( mine is long enough to do that ). The barrel sits in an aluminum "I" beam set on its side to obtain basically...an "H" beam. The barrel is 1.250" diam, so top edges of "H" beam are relieved slightly to "float" my 1.375" diam Wichita. I use 2 doubled bottom plates taken from "U"-bolts ( 4 pc total ) to provide desired upward clamping action from beneath the bottom of the "H" beam. This is accomplished by passing the four carriage bolts through the "U" bolt torque plates, and tightening down via correct sized 1/4" self-locking nuts / washers. The beam is 36" long. Forened and buttstock are fashioned from composite deck board materiel, sized to fit me. A rudimentray cheek piece is removable, to allow access for cleaning rod to breech. A slot is cut into bottom cneter web of "H" beam to accept recoil lug. to arrest reward recoil momment. Another slot is cut to allow trigger to pass through. With scope, rings, tapered 20moa base, and simple trigger guard, rifle wiehs in at just past 16lb. Gun shoots SO well, I will never go back too conventional bedded varmint rifle again. Got all metal parts for clamping set-up as described form local hardware store. Total cost: around $10.00 Best thing I EVER did for my accuracy shooting. Recoil is streight back. Rifle looks novel, however " agricultural " it may appear. .357Mag [/QUOTE]
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Key Kirby/Fiftydriver how about some V-block info
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