Kahntrol Clamp on Muzzle Brake Review

I had a 7mm for several years for hunting and then I wanted to long range target shoot with it. Issue I had was after the 3-4th shot, the flinch in anticipation of it going off, coupled with the recoil wasn't good at all. So I put a Kahntrol clamp on brake on it. Amazing that it then shot like a .243

One thing to keep in mind is the blast. I was on the range and briefly took off one side of my ear protection to listen to the range officer. I negligently forget to put it back on and when I pulled the trigger there was a blast shield that was between shooters and the concussion came back at me and how. I now have a permanent 10% loss of hearing in my right ear, so be careful with hearing protection !
I shot a 50 cal Barrett back in 2013, in a booth, with inadequate hearing protection. It finished the job that years of abuse had been inflicted upon my poor ears.
Upshot is - 15% in right side, 10% left side. Technically speaking I'm deaf, but with excellent (read EXPENSIVE), hearing aids, I function relatively normally.
I still shoot, but after shoulder surgery (full reverse replacement), in July, am waiting until February this coming year before I take a centrefire to the range - in fact, any shoulder fired unit. Handguns are expensive and the hoops required to own one make it a pipedream for me.
 
It looks to me from the photograph that there was very little gap between the cuts that are expected to close up on tightening with the capscrews.
It therefore seems likely the two "halves" were actually touching, thus preventing the brake from creating enough clamping grip strength to create a snug fit.
It is a balance of metallurgy to make the material soft enough to allow it to squeeze while being strong enough to keep threads from stripping out unless inserts or nuts are used in the construction.
So I'm inclined to think the brake had insufficient clamping ability to maintain a grip on the barrel an letting it be sent downrange.
Thanks for the information on the topic.
I'm trying to save up to ideally have my barrel threaded for a brake, but lacking that a clamp on version might be the way to go, even if the cost isn't much of a savings over a decent brake itself.
The gap probably was touching, and if I ever stumble across it, we will revisit this. If your barrel is in the right size range, I'll sell it to you cheap.

After getting my pistol shooting muffs, the Witt is very effective. I was just overwhelmed by the blast initially. I actually got my Witt for less than $80, and that included the black Cerakote.
 
Years ago I had the neck C1-6, re done. Was told NOT to shoot anything for at least 1year. And for darn sure NOT my 300 WM. Winchester Featherweight. Put a KDF break on it, showed the DR the specks on things and was back shooting with in 6-7 months! Just bought a HMR-PRO in 300 WM. A bit heavier gun and also PUT a Break on even before Ever firing it! Can shoot 30-40 rounds with just a "T" shirt on. No red or bruised shoulder! BREAKS ON!
 
I'm going to give it a try this weekend and I'll let you know how it works out. The rifle is a Browning A bolr Medallion I bought new in Kodiak in the late 80's and it's only 8 1/2 lbs loaded.
Ok, not sure what mine weighs I guess. It's a Model70 classic (Featherweight) stainless wood stock. I bought it new in the early 90's. I've never felt it kick shooting elk with it, but off the bench it sucks!
 
It looks to me from the photograph that there was very little gap between the cuts that are expected to close up on tightening with the capscrews.
It therefore seems likely the two "halves" were actually touching, thus preventing the brake from creating enough clamping grip strength to create a snug fit.
It is a balance of metallurgy to make the material soft enough to allow it to squeeze while being strong enough to keep threads from stripping out unless inserts or nuts are used in the construction.
So I'm inclined to think the brake had insufficient clamping ability to maintain a grip on the barrel an letting it be sent downrange.
Thanks for the information on the topic.
I'm trying to save up to ideally have my barrel threaded for a brake, but lacking that a clamp on version might be the way to go, even if the cost isn't much of a savings over a decent brake itself.
Witts brake I put on my 300 rum. Love it. It actually help tighten up my groups.
 

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and that kind of kick, is why God guided man to create muzzle brakes. PS Do not shoot a LW 300 RUM without a brake, they buck like a genetically altered Missouri mule on steroids :)
Back in 2004 I think it was I bought a Rem. 300 RUM. Shot it 5 times. Had a magnabrake installed. Life was good after.
 
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Much appreciated, I have one that I'm going to try on a pencil barreled 300wm that bucks like a Missouri mule.
Much appreciated, I have one that I'm going to try on a pencil barreled 300wm that bucks like a Missouri mule.
I just had a Witt brake made for a Weatherby Vangaurd 300 win mag. Same problem .
 
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Can the factory supplied brake on the Savage 112 Lapua 338 Mag be improved on, or is it the best you can do?
I think it would be hard to improve on but I suppose it could be possible. Mine was very soft shooting my grandson even shot it
 
Thats good to know. I have been waiting for a break in responsibilities to fire mine for the fist time. How much does your grandson weigh. Did he do it offhand or prone or benchrest?
 
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