Lrreloader
Well-Known Member
Scope height ended up being 1.834"Yes. I show 2806 fps corrected. That is if the BC is right. Not that familiar with hammer but also at 600 and in BC doesn't have a large effect.
I used 1.87" scope height.
Scope height ended up being 1.834"Yes. I show 2806 fps corrected. That is if the BC is right. Not that familiar with hammer but also at 600 and in BC doesn't have a large effect.
I used 1.87" scope height.
Limited on gear backpacking on horsesWhy not read this before you do any more shooting!
If you do this you will pay for tge extra cost of the LabRADAR in ammo and your time; not to speak of your sanity.Calculating BC with LabRadar. It works!
Picked up a LabRadar a couple days ago. It's a very nice machine. Quick Review (though you've heard it all before). Pros - Easy to setup, appears very accurate (tested against ProChrono), can run two rifles side by side with a buddy without repositioning, amazing data collection, so far no...www.longrangehunting.com
ALso I would take your Lab RADAR along on the hunting trip!
shootski
I will look into what a tall tracking test is, thanks for all your helpJust much better to do a tall tracking test. Less wasted ammo trying to shoot 1000 and fight environmentals.
WOW!!! That seems like a lot of work to accomplish the same thing that you can simply do by going to the range and actually shooting the ammo that your rifle likes and noting the changes in elevation and windage, recording the data and then simply using the actual data for your first shot. I have never been able to get a ballistics chart to work accurately for me. Something is always going to change. Your elevation, temperature, barometric pressure, temperatures and the like are all variable, sometimes from stage to stage when shooting competition. Now lets throw in varying crosswinds, mirage as well as the much forgotten Coriolis and you have everything available to mess up your carefully planned ballistic data. Instead...for you long range hunters take what you have and make it work for you. If you know your rifle, you keep your ammo constant and take the time to get a base zero at the ranges you are going to shoot at, all you have to do is dial in the predetermined zero for the distance you are going to be shooting at, adjust for conditions and let the bullet fly down range. Experience says that while not always in the X ring or exact center of the boiler room of the animal you are shooting at but it will not be too far off and should result in a kill shot providing you did all of the other things you are supposed to do prior to shooting.Hmmm….. I'm not sure what you have going on lol. I inputted a bunch of scenarios into my Shooter Application and nothing is adding up or coming close.
There is a big difference between shooting out to 500 yards vs. 1000. Out to around 500 is easily tweekable, but 1,000 you have to have very precise spot on info entered in to trig. out properly. Your best best is to buy a phone ap like Shooter Ballistics or Applied Ballistics and plug all the pertinent precise info in.
Barrel twist rate:
Twist direction:
Sight/scope height:
Sight offset:
Elevation units:
Turret Graduatons:
same as above for windage:
Elevation correction factor: (this can be used to tweek elev. or if scope doesn't track perfectly to a 1.0:1.0 Moa ratio)
Bullet diam:
Bullet weight:
Bullet length:
MV:
Velocity variation and powder temp: (if you put in the time for variances)
Atmosphere std:
Drag Model G1/G7:
Zerod range:
Sighted in/Zeroed atmosphere:
Altitude:
Baro pressure: (best to use station pressure if you have a device that captures it, I.E. Range finder, Kestrel)
Temp:
Humidity:
Coriolis comes in to play a bit at 1,000 but the least of your worries now.
Then what you're actual weather conditions/Atmosphere where you're shooting at during said shooting session vs where you zeroed in at.
Going from 1,400' to 9,500' shooting at 1,000 yards, you'll have to have most or all the above info to be accurate. A simple elevation change won't cut it with what info you're currently using.
Like I said I tried a bunch of tweaking and different scenarios and couldn't really get close to what you're actual is I tried scope height from about 1.6 to 2.1" (guessing), changed velocities by a couple hundred FPS, changed BC dramatically, changed scope elevation correction factors, tried to guess on your atmospheric conditions zeroed vs will be shooting at etc…. About the only thing I didn't try was changing your zero yardage. I'm assuming you zeroed in at 100 yards? A lot of pertinent and necessary info missing to get it to all add up.
Yes, you are correct more or less the small details. Don't try too hard to convince anyone.Here's something to read on also, I'm also refreshing my mind on this all to make sure I get it right….
Truing your Ballistic Calculator with Gravity Ballistics
Follow Sniper's Hide and pick up the latest information on all things precision rifle related. Sniper's Hide Training is for the serious tactical marksman.www.snipershide.com
I don't do this on a daily. I have read/watched very experienced people's written articles, forum threads/pinned threads, YouTube videos from @orkan, Erik Cortina, F-class John, Ryan from LRO. From most of them, they zero at 100, shoot at 600 and if things don't line up they adjust velocity. From there they stretch it out to 800-1000 or however far you expect to shoot to and they adjust the bc to get poi corrected because of the loss of speed makes the bc of the bullet change.
Do I have this procedure/process correct?
That's assuming the gun is zeroed at 100. Once that is established all the rest of the data should fall in line, but if I have a 500ft elevation 80 F. confirmed zero then go to 9000 ft elevation and 30 F how do I know where to set my zero if I don't actually shoot it.Not really, no. That's why we use 100yd zero.
Hmm, that's a cool/unique way of doing things, interesting.I do it the easy way. Zero at 1000 yards on a dead calm day. Then adjust my turret to what the data says the drop should be. Works every time. I dont worry about spin drift or tweaking number to fit. This assumes I have an accurate BC number like on a Berger. My 100 yd zero will be off a little but I dont care. I would not do this method for elr stuff, but it will be solid from 1k and in.