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Long Range Hunting & Shooting
How are you leveling your anti cant device???
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<blockquote data-quote="SidecarFlip" data-source="post: 864030" data-attributes="member: 39764"><p>Lets throw this into the pot and stir it shall we....</p><p> </p><p>Most 'levels', at least the ones you can buy from retailers that sell gun stuff (wheeler included) and not accurate in the first place so you are 'levelling' the firearm and/or the scope with an inherently inaccurate level.</p><p> </p><p>What you need is an accurate level and an solid repeatable surface and jig to mount the firearm in/on that you can accurately level it and the scope, in turn, if you really want both assemblies to be in the same plane.</p><p> </p><p>To that end, you need one or two machinist levels that actually level (via a precision etched vial) within 0.005 or better and a stable surface to jig the firearm on (not a bench top or your coffee table). They don't count and they aren't stable in the first place.</p><p> </p><p>I happen to have a Starrett pink granite checking plate in the shop that sits on a levelled stand (levelled with the previously mentioned machinist levels that I solidly jig my rifles to and then level the optic in relationship the the receiver.</p><p> </p><p>None of that is cheap but I happen to have those tools in the shop. You could get by with solidly securing the firearm in any holding fixture and levelling the receiver with a machinist level and then mounting the scope and levelling that using the upper turret cap (if flat). That should get you in the ballpark +- 10 thousands or so, or close enough you won't be able to discern any variation.</p><p> </p><p>Thats how I do it, no plumb bobs or any of that crap.</p><p> </p><p>I'm one of those shooters that always offhands a rifle at a cant, so I need that reference level on all my optics and it needs to be level and the reticle aligned, also why I only use bipods that adjust in 2 axis' I favor a Harris because the Y axis has adjustable dampening.</p><p> </p><p>At the very least, I'd be purchasing one or a pair of precision levels. You can't use a brick to achieve what you want and most levels are bricks.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SidecarFlip, post: 864030, member: 39764"] Lets throw this into the pot and stir it shall we.... Most 'levels', at least the ones you can buy from retailers that sell gun stuff (wheeler included) and not accurate in the first place so you are 'levelling' the firearm and/or the scope with an inherently inaccurate level. What you need is an accurate level and an solid repeatable surface and jig to mount the firearm in/on that you can accurately level it and the scope, in turn, if you really want both assemblies to be in the same plane. To that end, you need one or two machinist levels that actually level (via a precision etched vial) within 0.005 or better and a stable surface to jig the firearm on (not a bench top or your coffee table). They don't count and they aren't stable in the first place. I happen to have a Starrett pink granite checking plate in the shop that sits on a levelled stand (levelled with the previously mentioned machinist levels that I solidly jig my rifles to and then level the optic in relationship the the receiver. None of that is cheap but I happen to have those tools in the shop. You could get by with solidly securing the firearm in any holding fixture and levelling the receiver with a machinist level and then mounting the scope and levelling that using the upper turret cap (if flat). That should get you in the ballpark +- 10 thousands or so, or close enough you won't be able to discern any variation. Thats how I do it, no plumb bobs or any of that crap. I'm one of those shooters that always offhands a rifle at a cant, so I need that reference level on all my optics and it needs to be level and the reticle aligned, also why I only use bipods that adjust in 2 axis' I favor a Harris because the Y axis has adjustable dampening. At the very least, I'd be purchasing one or a pair of precision levels. You can't use a brick to achieve what you want and most levels are bricks. [/QUOTE]
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How are you leveling your anti cant device???
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