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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics
Honesty and group size
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<blockquote data-quote="Derek M." data-source="post: 592781" data-attributes="member: 2693"><p>My personal experience with factory Remington rifles is that the best groups I can get consistently is about 1-1.5" and that's it. </p><p></p><p>I guess I'm brainwashed but I really don't want to put effort into loading for factory rifles anymore. And if I did, it would have to be a rifle that has a known better barrel from the factory, like a Savage, Sako, or Weatherby that comes with a Criterion bbl. </p><p></p><p>Bedding is so very critical in my opinion. In my experience it made all the difference in the world with my old factory Ruger MK II M77. I had 2 things done to that rifle in 1989: trigger pull reduced to 3 pounds and "glass bedded." Nothing else. That alone changed things for the better. </p><p></p><p>I later had a Hart barrel put on it and had the smith accurize the action. More difference!</p><p></p><p>I've been told by competition shooters that the powder charge doesn't make quite as much difference as brass quality and concentricity and bullet seating depth. Even Tubb says in his video he made for Sierra years ago that as much as a 1 grain powder difference doesn't make a lot of change out to (600 yards) I think. </p><p></p><p>I'm still quite anal though. I sort brass by weight with strict tolerance. I weigh EVERY powder charge, and I seat bullets one at a time with measuring overall length in an RCBS precision mic. </p><p></p><p>I don't sort bullets using a comparator/bearing surface check. I just make sure that each one is loaded exactly the same distance off the lands and this has served me well. It required me lengthening the seater by about .07 each time and it is time consuming but it works.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Derek M., post: 592781, member: 2693"] My personal experience with factory Remington rifles is that the best groups I can get consistently is about 1-1.5" and that's it. I guess I'm brainwashed but I really don't want to put effort into loading for factory rifles anymore. And if I did, it would have to be a rifle that has a known better barrel from the factory, like a Savage, Sako, or Weatherby that comes with a Criterion bbl. Bedding is so very critical in my opinion. In my experience it made all the difference in the world with my old factory Ruger MK II M77. I had 2 things done to that rifle in 1989: trigger pull reduced to 3 pounds and "glass bedded." Nothing else. That alone changed things for the better. I later had a Hart barrel put on it and had the smith accurize the action. More difference! I've been told by competition shooters that the powder charge doesn't make quite as much difference as brass quality and concentricity and bullet seating depth. Even Tubb says in his video he made for Sierra years ago that as much as a 1 grain powder difference doesn't make a lot of change out to (600 yards) I think. I'm still quite anal though. I sort brass by weight with strict tolerance. I weigh EVERY powder charge, and I seat bullets one at a time with measuring overall length in an RCBS precision mic. I don't sort bullets using a comparator/bearing surface check. I just make sure that each one is loaded exactly the same distance off the lands and this has served me well. It required me lengthening the seater by about .07 each time and it is time consuming but it works. [/QUOTE]
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Honesty and group size
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