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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Help me build my ruger no.1!
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<blockquote data-quote="Buffalobob" data-source="post: 185810" data-attributes="member: 8"><p>What kind of custom scope base are you having made?</p><p></p><p>I am going to a custom weaver rail that is mounted on the barrel and then cantilevered back over the action. The reason to cantilever it back is to get the correct eye relief on the scope. The barrel will be a straight contour until it clears the scope base and then being the taper. Obviuosly it is a one of a kind barrel and a one of a kind scope base. I do not know if this will work but I am going to try it. There is a really big mule deer in Idaho that this rifle is being rebuilt for. The shot will be slightly over 1300 yards.</p><p></p><p>The way I got accuracy out of the rifle is to use a towel between the forearm and any rest. That absorbs shock and prevents the forearm from acting like a spring and bouncing the rifle upwards. As much as I hated to do it, the rifle really liked to be pulled into the shoulder very tight. I carried a rolled up towel hunting with me and used it on my 1100 yard shot on an elk long ago. That technique was good for less than 3/4 MOA past 1000 yards.</p><p></p><p>Second thing to do is to be very particular in your resizing. My opinion is to headspace off the shoulder and the falling block. You want the block to just barely make contact with the casehead as it closes.</p><p></p><p>My rifle is one of the early models with the adjustable trigger and it is a wonderful trigger.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buffalobob, post: 185810, member: 8"] What kind of custom scope base are you having made? I am going to a custom weaver rail that is mounted on the barrel and then cantilevered back over the action. The reason to cantilever it back is to get the correct eye relief on the scope. The barrel will be a straight contour until it clears the scope base and then being the taper. Obviuosly it is a one of a kind barrel and a one of a kind scope base. I do not know if this will work but I am going to try it. There is a really big mule deer in Idaho that this rifle is being rebuilt for. The shot will be slightly over 1300 yards. The way I got accuracy out of the rifle is to use a towel between the forearm and any rest. That absorbs shock and prevents the forearm from acting like a spring and bouncing the rifle upwards. As much as I hated to do it, the rifle really liked to be pulled into the shoulder very tight. I carried a rolled up towel hunting with me and used it on my 1100 yard shot on an elk long ago. That technique was good for less than 3/4 MOA past 1000 yards. Second thing to do is to be very particular in your resizing. My opinion is to headspace off the shoulder and the falling block. You want the block to just barely make contact with the casehead as it closes. My rifle is one of the early models with the adjustable trigger and it is a wonderful trigger. [/QUOTE]
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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Help me build my ruger no.1!
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