Help me build my ruger no.1!

[dodgefreak8]

hey everyone I have a ruger no.1 in 7mm stw that has been giving me alot of trouble in the accuracy department. I decided that I really LOVE the rifle but it's not shooting up to my expectations. I have handloaded to the best of my ability and even added some "performance parts" that helped a little. I would like to state that I don't want this to be a thread critiquing my shooting but helping me with what I need to do to make this the most accurate no.1 that exists and taking me out of the equation. here's my plan so far

Re-barrel with a kreiger barrel in a number 19 contour fluted.
Kepplinger set trigger and mould's speed hammer upgrade
Brockman's on/off muzzlebrake
custom scope mounts(need to get rid of that god awful quarter rib)

I already have the hicks accurizer installed and the stock free floated.

my main question is: Is there anything I need to ask the gunsmith (Greg Tannel) to do to this rifle to help with accuracy like truing the action or blueprinting (if these are even possible on a single shot) any help would be great thanks

 

[pvanwyk]

I own a 280 in a no. 1. Like yourself I love the rifle but the accuracy was erratic and appalling to say the least. I found using a benchrest setup, placing the gun at exactly the same place on the front rest that the groups where acceptable (1MOA). However shooting from field rest positions, i.e. when the front stock is not always at the same place on the rest that the groups opened up significantly (3MOA or more). I followed the tips from the following website:

RVB Precision Shooting - Accuracy Tips For The Ruger #1

installed a Hick's accurizer and my groups shrunk to 1/2MOA and are consistent.

 

[Buffalobob]

What kind of custom scope base are you having made?

I am going to a custom weaver rail that is mounted on the barrel and then cantilevered back over the action. The reason to cantilever it back is to get the correct eye relief on the scope. The barrel will be a straight contour until it clears the scope base and then being the taper. Obviuosly it is a one of a kind barrel and a one of a kind scope base. I do not know if this will work but I am going to try it. There is a really big mule deer in Idaho that this rifle is being rebuilt for. The shot will be slightly over 1300 yards.

The way I got accuracy out of the rifle is to use a towel between the forearm and any rest. That absorbs shock and prevents the forearm from acting like a spring and bouncing the rifle upwards. As much as I hated to do it, the rifle really liked to be pulled into the shoulder very tight. I carried a rolled up towel hunting with me and used it on my 1100 yard shot on an elk long ago. That technique was good for less than 3/4 MOA past 1000 yards.

Second thing to do is to be very particular in your resizing. My opinion is to headspace off the shoulder and the falling block. You want the block to just barely make contact with the casehead as it closes.

My rifle is one of the early models with the adjustable trigger and it is a wonderful trigger.

 

[koginam]

I have a Ruger No1 in 7stw that shoots .5 groups. I have found that cal. to be very accurate. My barrel is a Shilin but the Krieger barrel is a fine barrel as well, I have a heavy fluted barrel with muzzle break and a Canjar set trigger, which I give most of the credit for the increase in accuracy, If you can find a Canjar trigger grab it, You have picked a very good smith so listen to his suggestions, he builds some very good guns and knows what it takes.

 

[dodgefreak8]

thanks for all the reply's I plan on letting the smith do the custom scope mount out of some base stock. I had thought about extending the "flat" part of the barrel out to about 4.5" from the receiver like you said Buffalobob, to make this easier. I am very lucky that Greg tannel is about 45min from my house !! so I will definatly let him guide me in the right direction. Please if anyone has any othre comment please, I am all ears!! thanks again