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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Gunsmithing
Full Length Sizer Boring
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<blockquote data-quote="Trickymissfit" data-source="post: 798095" data-attributes="member: 25383"><p>I was thinking about D2 last night and the gist of the thread. Found an old Carpenter Steel manual laying about, and gave it a look thru. They felt that D2 would have been a good forming die (generic). Machinability is down from some of the others, but typical for tough air hardening steels. Regarded as one of the worst steels to grind (I never had any problems). But the same manual rated Stentor (they called it out as an O-2, but think it's closer to most O-1's) better for forming dies and machining. Now I have not cut Stentor in eons, but from what I can remember it cut just about as good as 8620. You don't get much better than that! One thing to remember about a lot of oil quench steels is that the quench process almost never ends with them. Put the parts in a freezer for as many months as you can stand, or better yet have them cryo'd. I always put tools I was building for myself in a deep freeze for about a month or even longer (-40f degrees). </p><p> </p><p>Bohler is a company, I've never been around. But if you drop them a note asking for the heat treat data, they'll usually supply it. What your after is the draw process to get the blanks back down to about 52-55rc. My data shows 1100f degrees for a 50rc or slightly harder. This seems low to me, but they for sure know more than I do. The cool down process will take most of the day and can be tricky</p><p>gary</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Trickymissfit, post: 798095, member: 25383"] I was thinking about D2 last night and the gist of the thread. Found an old Carpenter Steel manual laying about, and gave it a look thru. They felt that D2 would have been a good forming die (generic). Machinability is down from some of the others, but typical for tough air hardening steels. Regarded as one of the worst steels to grind (I never had any problems). But the same manual rated Stentor (they called it out as an O-2, but think it's closer to most O-1's) better for forming dies and machining. Now I have not cut Stentor in eons, but from what I can remember it cut just about as good as 8620. You don't get much better than that! One thing to remember about a lot of oil quench steels is that the quench process almost never ends with them. Put the parts in a freezer for as many months as you can stand, or better yet have them cryo'd. I always put tools I was building for myself in a deep freeze for about a month or even longer (-40f degrees). Bohler is a company, I've never been around. But if you drop them a note asking for the heat treat data, they'll usually supply it. What your after is the draw process to get the blanks back down to about 52-55rc. My data shows 1100f degrees for a 50rc or slightly harder. This seems low to me, but they for sure know more than I do. The cool down process will take most of the day and can be tricky gary [/QUOTE]
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