Factory loads

[deserthntr]

so i pretty much have enough money to get my gun, still havent decided whether i want a 300 or 7mm, so it will be the first gun i come across in either rem 700 or savage. but i will probably shoot factory loads until i get enough that its worth my reloading time, and so i can save to get all then dyes and pwder and everything. but what factory loads do you recommend for the 7mm, 300 wm, or 300 ultra mag? thanks

 

[ForneyRider]

Winchester 150gr CXP1 have been excellent for most 7mm Mags I've shot them in. They are $20 a box.

The Winchester Supreme and other high end magnum factory loads are 60$ for 20. With a Lee kit, dies and components, you can make the nice factory loads for about 1/3 to 1/2 the cost of factory. Price goes way down if you have free brass.

I chose factory loads based on the brass. So I like Norma, Winchester and Remington in order.

 

[winmag]

Fed Fusion 180gr for 300wm. Bonded boattail bullet. Good bullet.
You may also want to check out Hornady ''Suoerformance'' and Hornady ''Custom'' ammo for factory stuff.

 

[MN Hunter]

Federal Premiums - Barnes 180gr ttsx shoot very good for factory ammo in my unmodified Remington 700 300win.

 

[roninflag]

never shot factory 300. something light like a 150, 165 or 168cbt is what i would shoot. for the 7mm i shoot a lot of 139 horn btsp.

 

[RT2506]

7mm Rem mag for deer the Hornady custom 154 gr SP interlock or the interbond are the ones my friend sales the most of out of his gun store in east NC where deer hunting is BIG. Everybody says that these seem to be the best one shot in their tracks killers.

 

[omc.cobra]

Factory Ammo - For my R5 Milspec .308 - hard to beat Federal Gold Medal 168 gr. For my Sendero .300 Win Mag - Federal Gold Medal 190 gr.

DPMS .223 AP4 - Federal 50 grain HP - cycles well - good varmint round.
DPMS .308 AP4 - Remingon 150 PSP - cycles well - good varmint round as well. Federal 150 gr PSP WILL NOT cycle. Winchester works ok too.

Tried some reloading of the .308 for the AR - didn't crimp - no issues there with bullet movement in the magazines - tried IMR 4895 from 40.5 to 45.0 - groups were OK, not spectacular, but velocity doesn't get close to the Remington Core-Lokt 150 grain factory rounds (2600 fps out of the 16 inch barrel) using the same bullet until at the high end of the powder charge - even then it is more like 2550 fps with the reloads. I set the overall length of the finished cartridge the same as the Remington Core-lokts.


So I just reloaded 3 sets of five using Reloder 15 - 42.5, 43.5, and 44.5 gr but haven't tried them yet. Also haven't tried Varget powder. Anyone reloaded for the AR in .308???

On the strictly accuracy side - I am set up to reload the 168 and 175 Sierra bullets for the .308 for the R5 Milspec, and 190 gr Sierra's for the .300 WM, but haven't started. The .300 does a nice job with Federal at 1,000 yds, but price per box is a bit spendy. Will try the .308 as well at that distance as so far I have only shot 600 yards with that caliber - but it is a little easier on the shoulder. So much to do, so little time it seems.....

Any comments on powder for the .300 WM reloading - I have a couple pounds of Reloder 22 to try?

 

[roninflag]

OMC- I USE 72.5 of re-22 lapua brass 210 berger

 

[omc.cobra]

Ok, thanks - good info

 

[JD338]

It will cost you approx $350-400 to start loading from scratch, even less than half if you started out with the Lee hand tools. Then add a press and dies when you can afford it.
IMO, a better way to go than buying factory ammo that is grossly over priced!

JD338

 

[beretzs]

Jim is right on. If you shoot more than 3 boxes of premium bullets a year, you would have a good start on a quality reloading set. Doesn't take much to get started and used equipment is usually sold because folks have upgraded, not because they are have worn something out. I haven't worn any of my original equipment out yet, and I have been using it since I was 13-14 years old and I am 32 now. Scotty

 

[winmag]

It will cost you approx $350-400 to start loading from scratch, even less than half if you started out with the Lee hand tools. Then add a press and dies when you can afford it.
IMO, a better way to go than buying factory ammo that is grossly over priced!

JD338

+1 Nailed it.

 

[roninflag]

desert hunter- my opinion : you can get drawn for coues yearly. you are better off with a bullet at the lighter end and that is "soft" . 7mm 120 baltip or 139 horn, 140 berger. for a 300 a 150 , or a 165-168. you can save a bunch by handloading

 

[deserthntr]

well maybe i had better just reload, becuase my dad has the press, powder chucker, everything. all i really need is the powder, brass, bullets, primers. but i thought it might be better to shoot factory loads until i had enough brass for reloading. how should i go about getting the brass? should i just buy the bag of it at like bass pro or cabelas? or buy some once shot brass from someone else? and i guess i will change my question to what is a good load to start with and work from? for both 300 win and 7mm