Enfield 1917 rear bridge "duck pond"

[RossCo13]

I'm looking for some help and/or ideas on how to take care of the oval whole at the rear receiver bridge. I've herd several different methods, plug & silver solder, plug & weld, fill with epoxy. Are there any other methods anyone knows of and why would it be the preferred method?

 

[RossCo13]

To clarify the weld and the soldier fix both make me nervous due the heat. Wouldn't that mess with the temper of the action? The epoxy method is out of the question personally just sounds to cheap ( no quality ) in my opinion.

 

[Varmtr]

As this part of the action is under no real stress when compared to the breach end. BSA in England silver soldered plugs. If worried about excess heat you could submerge the action into water or a heavy weight gear oil while welding. Another way is to tig weld the plug in stages but you will need to use a filler rod that has 3.5-4% Nickel in it, as the action is made of forged 3.5% nickel steel.
As I have a Win P14 with the pond I'll be tig welding a plug for mine.

 

[RossCo13]

Awesome thanks for the input! I had wondered about using something for a heat sink such as water or oil as you suggest. Tigging was my first choice just wasn't sure I should go that route. My rifle is a Win P17 got it already sporterized. Kind made me sick the first time I pulled the front scope mount off and saw it is a Win, being that in original condition it would have been worth a pretty penny. Anyway the rear mount only has one screw through it due to the whole on the rear bridge. I have a suspicion that it is allowing some play on the scope. This fix I'm hoping will help some.

 

[Varmtr]

Another option which I have seen is a plug made up and epoxy in using Devcon or Belzona. Only issue I see is blueing or parkerizing, but the action in question was cerakote afterwards.

 

[RossCo13]

Another option which I have seen is a plug made up and epoxy in using Devcon or Belzona. Only issue I see is blueing or parkerizing, but the action in question was cerakote afterwards.

I realize that this area isn't necessarily in terms of firearms under heavy stress. But I would be worried about this type of fix not holding up with time and under the stresses applied under scope mounting, recoil and regular hunting use. Do you feel this is an unfounded concern?

 

[Varmtr]

G'Day Rossco
If you were going to drill and tap a thread for a scope base were the plug is then I would tig a plug in. If you plan to drill and tap either side of the pond for a base, I don't see a issue with just epoxy the plug in. As long as the plug contours the action the base will clamp down on the plug and original metal evenly. The stresses in regards to a scope base under recoil for one's that don't have a recoil lug is taken by the screws. Hence most guys upgrade the screws from 6x48's to 8x40's.

 

[RossCo13]

G'Day Varmtr
Sounds like sound advise to me. Thanks a lot for your input! I guess in the end it all comes down to how much time and effort I feel like putting into the gun.

 

[Varmtr]

G'Day Rossco
Your welcome and goog luck with it.
Me personally I like these actions and the dog leg bolt handle and when properly done they look good. Also these are the only real bolt actions that will allow to run a 303 Epps chambering at full potential. But like you mentioned how much $$$ and time are you willing to put in to.
Cheers