different brands of brass and effects on charges

MT257

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I developed a load for a 300wsm with hornady brass. I was given a bunch of once fired nosler brass. I weighed them both the hornady was 237gr and the nosler 245gr. I have never really looked into this. I understand the nosler will have a smaller capacity because it weighs more, but how much if I want the same bullet to shoot with same powder how much will I need to reduce the load? Is 9 grains even enough to make a difference?
 
I've never liked relying on case weight. You don't know where that extra weight is, whether it's in the wall thickness or in the case head.

I prefer to go off the wet/water capacity of the case. Ideally, I like to measure it once the case has been fire formed to your chamber and trimmed to length.

Once you have these numbers, you can input the data in to a tool like GRT, Gordon's Reloading Tool, and see how the water capacity differences impact your velocity.

How close is your current load to being a max load? Are you on the edge of pressure signs?
 
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What kind of rifle? If it's a factory gun, then back off at least 5% of charge weight, work back up, retune, and run it. It shouldn't shoot worse than what you have already. If it does, scrap it and buy new brass.

If you want to shoot 100-10X then this obviously isn't the way.... but if you just want to eat Bambi it will most likely work.
 
What kind of rifle? If it's a factory gun, then back off at least 5% of charge weight, work back up, retune, and run it. It shouldn't shoot worse than what you have already. If it does, scrap it and buy new brass.

If you want to shoot 100-10X then this obviously isn't the way.... but if you just want to eat Bambi it will most likely work.
remington 700. action has been blueprinted. thats about it though, no other work has been done on it.
 
You'll need to back off and work up as above. I agree with buying lots of quality brass if you switch over now. Buy once, cry once.
Nosler is or had the reputation as being softer in the head. I lose primer pockets when pushing to max book charges. Might put your name on a wait list for Peterson, ADG or others.
 
Normally I only buy a single brand of brass, but I wasn't about to turn away roughly 150 pieces of once fired nosler. The guy I got them from was going to pitch them. If its gonna be that big of a deal I'll just toss the things.
 
Normally I only buy a single brand of brass, but I wasn't about to turn away roughly 150 pieces of once fired nosler. The guy I got them from was going to pitch them. If its gonna be that big of a deal I'll just toss the things.
No not a BIG deal, but just realize you can use them (they're free!), but pockets won't take too much. You can sell the Nosler if you'd like. I have Nosler and monitor more than normal, and I cannot get to the higher accuracy nodes many others do (speed/pressure restrictions). I have to back off and compromise in most cases.
 
remington 700. action has been blueprinted. thats about it though, no other work has been done on it.
Factory barrel or a did you barrel to a nicer one? If it's a pretty loose chamber I would test fit a few and see how tight they are. Then try to minimally size them, and run a ladder. 10 bullets/primers isn't a lot to risk wasting to see if they'll shoot. Worst case they only last a couple firings, but if you can find a load that shoots decently quickly, it's still 150 cases and time to find other brass. No different than replacing a batch of cases, which you'll have to do eventually if you don't have enough to shoot the barrel out with already.

If it were me, I would use them. But on occasion I do sketchy things like reload mixed headstamps and use a powder drop without checking anything after the first drop on a scale, so I might be nuts :eek:
 
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Working out actual case capacity in grains is really quite simple.
Take a fired case of each, weigh them, fill with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol, fill to top of neck without the liquid bulging above the neck and weigh again. The difference is the capacity in grains of H2O.
I do this on all of my brass, even on different lots.
Many brands weigh similar, but their capacities are not similar because then webs and thick walls hold more and thick webs and thinner walls hold less.

Cheers.
 
Brass has it's character. Different lots/brands can react differently to pressure, especially when formed from a different chamber.
My advice: don't ever buy used rifle brass.. Just throw away the junk you bought.

It really is best to buy enough new, in-lot, for the expected life of your barrel.
And it's always in your best interest to set up a chamber & load that won't waste a lot of brass.
 
Working out actual case capacity in grains is really quite simple.
Take a fired case of each, weigh them, fill with a 50/50 mix of water and isopropyl alcohol, fill to top of neck without the liquid bulging above the neck and weigh again. The difference is the capacity in grains of H2O.
I do this on all of my brass, even on different lots.
Many brands weigh similar, but their capacities are not similar because then webs and thick walls hold more and thick webs and thinner walls hold less.

Cheers.

Magnum...
If you are using isopropyl alcohol (.786 SG) at 50/50 with water (1.0 SG), the combined SG is 0.893 SG.

If you measure the weight difference between an empty and full case with that 50/50 solution, the difference is not the case capacity in gr of water, but gr of your solution. You'll be off by 10+% unless you apply the density correction factor.
 
I'm not interested in SG, as long as I use the same solution, my results are the same.
Water changes SG with mineral content.
This is also why I measure CC's in my brass using kerosene….the volume doesn't change in relation to the liquids SG.

Cheers.
 
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