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Hunting
The Basics, Starting Out
Couple Beginner Questions
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<blockquote data-quote="Buffalobob" data-source="post: 269478" data-attributes="member: 8"><p>The way you determine the amount of elevation you need in a scope is to start with the amount of drop you will need to shoot the longest distance. In the case of the 308 we will assume it is 1000 yards and 40 MOA.</p><p></p><p>So with the rifle zeroed at 100 yards you must have 40 MOA of elevation left in the turret knob plus a couple for buffer. </p><p></p><p>Assuming the receiver of the rifle is level (not always the case) then a scope mounted on a flat base will be zeroed at just about the center of the adjustment range. In other words a scope with 50 MOA of total adjsutment will have 25 MOA UP and 25 MOA DOWN. Clearly with a flat base you do not have enough "UP" to adjust 40 MOA to shoot a 1000 yard target.</p><p></p><p>So you use a 20 MOA base which then means that the rifle is zeroed at 20 MOA below center or down to the very bottom with only 25-20 = 5 MOA left of DOWN adjustment. You then have 20+ 25 MOA of UP adjustment. Working with so little room for error (only 5 MOA left of DOWN when zeroed and only 5 MOA of UP buffer) is risky unless you know that the receiver if truly flat. You can wind up not being able to zero at 100 yards or not being able to adjust to 1000 yards if the receiver is off more than 5 MOA.</p><p></p><p>Options are to use the Burris Signature rings as mentioned or if the scope you choose has some type of grid reticle you can use the grid to augment the elevation adjustment.</p><p></p><p>If you are not going to hunt with the rifle there is not a lot of reason to have a variable scope. Fixed power scopes are simpler and will often give you better optics for less money.</p><p></p><p>For a 308 there is not a lot of need for a muzzle brake. If you want one that is fine. It is not a big deal to put it on at a later date. I would not plan on it.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Buffalobob, post: 269478, member: 8"] The way you determine the amount of elevation you need in a scope is to start with the amount of drop you will need to shoot the longest distance. In the case of the 308 we will assume it is 1000 yards and 40 MOA. So with the rifle zeroed at 100 yards you must have 40 MOA of elevation left in the turret knob plus a couple for buffer. Assuming the receiver of the rifle is level (not always the case) then a scope mounted on a flat base will be zeroed at just about the center of the adjustment range. In other words a scope with 50 MOA of total adjsutment will have 25 MOA UP and 25 MOA DOWN. Clearly with a flat base you do not have enough "UP" to adjust 40 MOA to shoot a 1000 yard target. So you use a 20 MOA base which then means that the rifle is zeroed at 20 MOA below center or down to the very bottom with only 25-20 = 5 MOA left of DOWN adjustment. You then have 20+ 25 MOA of UP adjustment. Working with so little room for error (only 5 MOA left of DOWN when zeroed and only 5 MOA of UP buffer) is risky unless you know that the receiver if truly flat. You can wind up not being able to zero at 100 yards or not being able to adjust to 1000 yards if the receiver is off more than 5 MOA. Options are to use the Burris Signature rings as mentioned or if the scope you choose has some type of grid reticle you can use the grid to augment the elevation adjustment. If you are not going to hunt with the rifle there is not a lot of reason to have a variable scope. Fixed power scopes are simpler and will often give you better optics for less money. For a 308 there is not a lot of need for a muzzle brake. If you want one that is fine. It is not a big deal to put it on at a later date. I would not plan on it. [/QUOTE]
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