Contact info for Barrel Block makers

Discussion in 'Rifles, Bullets, Barrels & Ballistics' started by Matt27, Mar 9, 2005.

  1. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

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    I am hoping you guys could help me out.
    I am looking for any contact numbers or people that make barrel blocks.

    I am going to need one for an upcoming project.

    Thanks
    Matt
     
  2. BountyHunter

    BountyHunter Writers Guild

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    Go to Bruce Baer in PA, at www.baercustomrifles.com

    Go with the split block that just clamps back together. Real pain in the but plus more expensive to have a glue in barrrel in solid block installed and when it comes time to change barrels more time and money to have taken out vs just unscrewing 6-8 hex head screws. Absolutely zero difference in accuracy.

    Bruce has done a lot of testing in this area and the 9" block is the best.

    BH
     

  3. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks BH.

    Since getting a new computer i have lost alot of my favorite lists and my mine has drawn a blank on who makes them.
     
  4. brian b

    brian b Well-Known Member

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    Bill Shehane at D&B supply 704-824-7511 or you might want to ask Fiftydriver on this forum I am sure he could hook you up
     
  5. 308 nate

    308 nate Well-Known Member

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    Hi Matt27,
    If you are interested I have a clamp-on, 9", 1.250 bore, 6061 aluminum barrel block in the shop that's just about ready to go.These barrel blocks are precisely machined and have not been buffed for a mirror finish.Also included are four aluminum pillars for bedding. The block I have listed above sells for $200.00 shipped but I can custom make blocks to your barrel diameter for an additional $35.00
    The bore on These blocks are drilled and then reamed for a smooth and precise bore and then the outside of the block is cut true to the bore.Here is what I tell people when wondering what they do

    #1- They are an excellant heat sink in which they suck heat away from the throat area of the barrel.

    #2- when the barrel block is installed,the action is free floated which relieves stress from the action.

    #3- you are supporting the barrel further out, so instead of hanging a 30" barrel you are only hanging 21" of barrel.

    Here are some pictures of what the block looks like.

    6" block 6 - 1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in. lbs
    [​IMG]

    8" block 7-1/4 28 cap screws torque to 70 in.lbs
    [​IMG]


    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    here are two groups shot at 700 yards with the barrel block rifle.As you can see they don't hinder accuracy any.

    [​IMG]

    308nate
     
  6. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks guys.

    308 They look good but i really like the idea of Bruce Bear's split block. If one needs to take the action out you can leave half of the block in. I do not see that yours do that. I like your price though /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/grin.gif
     
  7. 308 nate

    308 nate Well-Known Member

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    Matt27,
    Bruce Bears' 2-piece block I am sure is an excellant barrel block and you probably would not go wrong with it.

    I am by no means trying to push this block on you,I just thought I would explain why my blocks are the way they are.
    By having the bolts on the bottom I can make the block fit into a narrower stock and I feel that the one piece block will have a more consistant hold than a two piece block. Here is a picture of how my blocks are installed.
    First the block is installed on the barrel and then the stock is inletted for the block and pillars. I also inlet 1-1/2 - 2" under the action for epoxy recoil area.then,pillars are bolted to the bottom of the block and then the barrreled action is placed in the stock.the pillars are held in with five minute epoxy,once the 5 min epoxy sets the bolts are removed and the barreled action is removed and then a liquide epoxy like Acraglas is poured in around the pillars to within 1/4" of the top of the pillars. 24 hours later the slot in the block and the holes on the side for the cap screws are filled with modeling clay and then a release agent is applied to the block,action and barrel.And then for the final stage, Devcon aluminum putty is layed 1/4" thick under the block and 1/2" deep under the action and then the barelled action and block are layed in the stock and the four mounting bolts are installed and torqued to 30 in.lbs. then it sets for another 24 hrs. Next barrel,action and block are removed and..... clean up time.
    Once this process is done removing the barreled action from the stock is a 1 minute job... tops.

    When it is time for a re-barrel the barreled action and block are removed from the stock then the 1/4 - 28 cap screws are loosened and the block is slid off the barrel. 2 minutes ....tops! Then re-barrel is standard procedure.

    I hope my explanation is comprehendable as I did leave out a lot of little details in the bedding procedure ,just gave you an overview.
    FWIW,
    308nate


    [​IMG]
     
  8. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

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    308nate

    email sent.

    Thanks

    Matt
     
  9. Matt27

    Matt27 Well-Known Member

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    308nate

    tried to email you but got "undeliverable"

    My email is LAPUAA338@MSN.COM

    Thanks

    Matt
     
  10. 308 nate

    308 nate Well-Known Member

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    Matt,
    I'll be up for another 1/2 hour here if you want to give me a call.My internet mail server is currently down so no e-mails coming in all afternoon and probably not untill MOnday,so maybe there was a reason your e-mail didn't come through the other night anyway give me a buzz if you like.Also I will be home tomorrow until noon CT.
    308nate
     
  11. Black Diamond 408

    Black Diamond 408 Well-Known Member

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    Nate,
    I have a question for your barrel blocks, What is the measurements? What minimum size stock would be required? Forarm width? I have a 408 i may put one on to test, the barrel is 1.350 dia barrel shank.

    Thanks! Dave
     
  12. 308 nate

    308 nate Well-Known Member

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    Dave,
    As far as making a barrel block with a 1.350 bore,you would need to order at least 5 barrel blocks as I would have to have a reamer specailY ground to that diameter.If you already have the barrel with a 1.350 bore, I would recommend a 9" barrel block with a 1.3125 bore and then turning your barrel down to 1.3125 for 9" then you would slip the barrel block onto the barrel from the breech end and then thread on the action. The barrel block width for the 1.3125 would be 1.8125. Minimum stock width I would recommend would be 2.200 (top of your forearm.) The stock in the picture is a 3-1/2" flat bottom forearm which tapers to 2-1/2" at the top. Here are some standard bore diameters if you are having a barrel made, you can specify contour to match the bore.

    1.250 over all barrel block width 1.750
    1.312 over all barrel block width 1.812
    1.375 over all barrel block width 1.875
    1.437 over all barrel block width 1.937
    1.500 over all barrel block width 2.000
    308 nate
     
  13. Black Diamond 408

    Black Diamond 408 Well-Known Member

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    Thanks for the info Nate.
     
  14. Brent

    Brent Well-Known Member

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    Dave,

    My barrel block is pretty near identical to Nate's. It's bored for the 1.35" dia. bbl and is somewhat narrower to fit the forend in my stock though. I could measure it for you to see what was left as a minimum thickness on the 45 deg. flats, and to see how wide it is. Mine's 10" long also.

    Nate,

    How much do you charge for a 1.25" bore in a blank alum block?

    Dave,

    How much to clear anodize a couple of these babies for me?