Confused: Brass/headspace question

As soon as the there is resistance closing the bolt, bump .001"-.002" and do ALL cases that are the same measurement. Some brass will still be moving more or less at this point.
You may not need the precision that I do for F-class, but it won't hurt to have some brass at different headspace lengths in a hunting rifle.
More important is internal volume, if you don't sort by volume, not weight, then it really won't matter if the brass has slightly differing headspace by a couple 'thou.

Cheers.
Great thx
 
No, I actually have 140 once fired from my rifle that were the original factory ammo and those are the ones I'm dealing with. I also have 100 new brass with some being fired, but nothing resized yet.

As far as sizing, I followed directions and with dies. First I measured multiple cases and found what I thought was largest of the bunch (shoulder length). Then with case in up position in press, screwed die down until touching. Then lowered case and screwed die in further until seeing it get bumped back. Now seeing these recommendations, I see I probably shouldn't have done it this way until being fired 2=3 times!

The rifle is a Christensen arm ridge line and yes I know how to remove firing pin.
To add to what others have said, if you're setting your die to bump the largest one back a few thousanths then you may not be bumping the shortest of the brass back at all which would also explain the variety of measurements you're seeing. After a few firings I would set it to bump the shortest so that all are bumped to the same point.
 
No, I actually have 140 once fired from my rifle that were the original factory ammo and those are the ones I'm dealing with. I also have 100 new brass with some being fired, but nothing resized yet.

As far as sizing, I followed directions and with dies. First I measured multiple cases and found what I thought was largest of the bunch (shoulder length). Then with case in up position in press, screwed die down until touching. Then lowered case and screwed die in further until seeing it get bumped back. Now seeing these recommendations, I see I probably shouldn't have done it this way until being fired 2=3 times!

The rifle is a Christensen arm ridge line and yes I
No, I actually have 140 once fired from my rifle that were the original factory ammo and those are the ones I'm dealing with. I also have 100 new brass with some being fired, but nothing resized yet.

As far as sizing, I followed directions and with dies. First I measured multiple cases and found what I thought was largest of the bunch (shoulder length). Then with case in up position in press, screwed die down until touching. Then lowered case and screwed die in further until seeing it get bumped back. Now seeing these recommendations, I see I probably shouldn't have done it this way until being fired 2=3 times!

The rifle is a Christensen arm ridge line and yes I know how to remove firing pin.
If your getting 1/2" to 5/8" moa, that's great. I have a CA Ridgeline in .280 AI and its moa. My problem is getting consistency. My Browning Xbolt 7-08 shoots consistently .5" - .75" with Accubonds and my Tikka .243 same. The only difference is I have Lapua brass for .243 and .7-08. It is much better than Nosler brass. I've been trying to purchase Peterson brass for almost a year. 6 months ago I called them and Graff's. Very polite but said there was a long wait ahead. Keep us posted on development and good luck
 
Using the Hornady spray case lube
I had some problems using it . it wasn't as slippy as the RCBS lube on a pad . someone else mentioned the case sizing wax , I've used that with good results too . the problem with a poor lube is it will allow enough resistance the brass case won't go in the die the same distance every time . causing varying lengths . I see you are adjusting the die as the instructions call for . this should be solid contact between the die and shellholder . you can easily watch for this poor lube condition . every time you size a case watch for a slight gap between the full length die and the shellholder at the top of the stroke . if these gap apart any at all that piece of brass will be longer .


if you want to size your brass for your rifle .
you want to use the neck die now . use it until you get a little tightness closing the bolt . then adjust the die for about .002" shoulder bump . we can explain this more , better , if you want . I don't know how far along you are in reloading , and don't want to confuse you .
 
I had some problems using it . it wasn't as slippy as the RCBS lube on a pad . someone else mentioned the case sizing wax , I've used that with good results too . the problem with a poor lube is it will allow enough resistance the brass case won't go in the die the same distance every time . causing varying lengths . I see you are adjusting the die as the instructions call for . this should be solid contact between the die and shellholder . you can easily watch for this poor lube condition . every time you size a case watch for a slight gap between the full length die and the shellholder at the top of the stroke . if these gap apart any at all that piece of brass will be longer .


if you want to size your brass for your rifle .
you want to use the neck die now . use it until you get a little tightness closing the bolt . then adjust the die for about .002" shoulder bump . we can explain this more , better , if you want . I don't know how far along you are in reloading , and don't want to confuse you .
Thanks, I was using th sizing wax for years with good results maybe I will switch back. As far as instructions are concerned, they do state to thread die down until touching shell holder, but then back off until you get the desired bump. This is what I did, but after seeing your post and few others its obvious my brass has not expanded enough yet. I think your suggestion of neck sizing until I start noticing the bolt tightness is the way to go. Thanks it very informative getting advice from others with much more experience.
 
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