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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Competition Dies?
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<blockquote data-quote="Mysticplayer" data-source="post: 69796" data-attributes="member: 8947"><p>First investment, concentricity guage. You must know what you are up against and how your are progressing. Of course, the piece of glass is an excellent plan B. If the ammo is not obviously out of whack, shoot it. If the ammo shoots well, you are doing what needs to be done.</p><p></p><p>We buy all sorts of stuff and tune till we wear out our barrels because that is what turns our cranks. Many on this board shoot better at 300yds then most do at 100yds. But that takes a lot of time, effort, some money, and well built rifles. In a factory rifle, consistent sub MOA performance is really my goal. you can do better sometimes or just luck into a great shooter...sometimes.</p><p></p><p>I use the Lee collet neck die for as many rifles as I can get dies for. I have yet to find a rifle that did not respond to this style of sizing. Runout is very low. I say equal to the comp dies IF your chamber is cut straight.</p><p></p><p>It rarely creates problems but will not fix any either. These dies do take some force to size as you are forcing a collet to squeeze your brass against a mandrel. Best part is you can never oversize. If the brass is consistent, neck tension is superbly consistent from case to case.</p><p></p><p>I prefer a higher amount of neck tension. Whatever you decide just remember that the ammo has to survive getting from your loading bench into your chamber without being knocked out of alignment. I have had ammo with low neck tension go wonky from handling (hunting and such).</p><p></p><p>With straight ammo, the loading process will go much easier. Next stop is quality powders, accurate bullets, a well bedded action and free floated barrel, good solid bench with proper rests, clear and precise optics, good form in shooting, calm days and lots of practise.</p><p></p><p>Not trying to be mean but you need to be able to shoot small groups to get small groups. If your ammo is up to scratch and things aren't as good as you would want, make sure you are shooting as well as you expect your rifle. That will come with practise of course so don't despair.</p><p></p><p>There is lots of info on this board and we are always willing to share. Post your questions and I am sure you wil get answers. Or at least varied opinions...</p><p></p><p>Jerry</p><p></p><p>PS one more thing to check. Size a case and just seat a bullet in the neck. Chamber the cartridge. Extract and you should see where the lands have engraved on the bullet (put some jiffy marker on the bullet). If you cannot get the bullet to fully engage the lands before leaving the case neck, the odds of having a tack driver is slim to nil. 1 to 1.5 MOA at short range at best. Time to set back the chamber.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Mysticplayer, post: 69796, member: 8947"] First investment, concentricity guage. You must know what you are up against and how your are progressing. Of course, the piece of glass is an excellent plan B. If the ammo is not obviously out of whack, shoot it. If the ammo shoots well, you are doing what needs to be done. We buy all sorts of stuff and tune till we wear out our barrels because that is what turns our cranks. Many on this board shoot better at 300yds then most do at 100yds. But that takes a lot of time, effort, some money, and well built rifles. In a factory rifle, consistent sub MOA performance is really my goal. you can do better sometimes or just luck into a great shooter...sometimes. I use the Lee collet neck die for as many rifles as I can get dies for. I have yet to find a rifle that did not respond to this style of sizing. Runout is very low. I say equal to the comp dies IF your chamber is cut straight. It rarely creates problems but will not fix any either. These dies do take some force to size as you are forcing a collet to squeeze your brass against a mandrel. Best part is you can never oversize. If the brass is consistent, neck tension is superbly consistent from case to case. I prefer a higher amount of neck tension. Whatever you decide just remember that the ammo has to survive getting from your loading bench into your chamber without being knocked out of alignment. I have had ammo with low neck tension go wonky from handling (hunting and such). With straight ammo, the loading process will go much easier. Next stop is quality powders, accurate bullets, a well bedded action and free floated barrel, good solid bench with proper rests, clear and precise optics, good form in shooting, calm days and lots of practise. Not trying to be mean but you need to be able to shoot small groups to get small groups. If your ammo is up to scratch and things aren't as good as you would want, make sure you are shooting as well as you expect your rifle. That will come with practise of course so don't despair. There is lots of info on this board and we are always willing to share. Post your questions and I am sure you wil get answers. Or at least varied opinions... Jerry PS one more thing to check. Size a case and just seat a bullet in the neck. Chamber the cartridge. Extract and you should see where the lands have engraved on the bullet (put some jiffy marker on the bullet). If you cannot get the bullet to fully engage the lands before leaving the case neck, the odds of having a tack driver is slim to nil. 1 to 1.5 MOA at short range at best. Time to set back the chamber. [/QUOTE]
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