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Rifles, Reloading, Optics, Equipment
Reloading
Competition Dies?
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<blockquote data-quote="Brent" data-source="post: 69787" data-attributes="member: 99"><p>Kirby made a good post about the case being held in alignment while the neck is being sized by the bushing. </p><p></p><p>To add to that part I will say that a full length sizing die that is cut to accept bushings will be the very best at maintaining zero runout, with the dies using guide sleeves a close second. The Redding comp die with the sleeve has "some" slop due to the built in clearance between the sleeve and die body, so there is chance for misalignment where a full length sizing die is in perfect alignment and always will be. A full length bushing die is your best bet, and for a small fee Jim Carstensen will even modify your existing FL die to accept neck bushings. </p><p></p><p>The neck bushings are critical to control overworking of the brass, but also controling neck tension. The benifits are obvious and versatility is so much better. The only way to partially control these two factors without them in a standard die is to get rid of the expander and turn necks on your cases to get the desired neck tension without it... but this leaves the neck to expand even more when fired, looser if you will, not good but it's still worked less than using the expander ball and you know you have true necks, and even tension due to this. Still, it's only a half way solution, kind of.</p><p></p><p>Like JB said, buy a Wilson seater, get your neck tension down to .001-.0015 press fit and seat bullets by hand, or arbor press, either way. If you turn your necks to true them, use a bushing FL die and seat with a Wilson inline die, you will have runout less than .001 guranteed.... now your chamber being concentric with the bore, neck concentric with the body, etc., that is up in the air with a factory rig. Making perfect ammo will help with consistancy in any event. The concentricity gauge will tell you mostly what you already know but can be handy for many things. I'd buy it last though. </p><p></p><p>Use a good VLD chamfer tool. I use the K&amp;M and prefer it because it has the adjustable stop. Jackets are never shaved after using it.</p><p></p><p>I recommend the K&amp;M neck turner with reamer mandrel for uniform neck thickness too.</p><p></p><p>The RO I see after doing full prep doesn't even remotely approach .001, more like .0003 or less... 100% of the time.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Brent, post: 69787, member: 99"] Kirby made a good post about the case being held in alignment while the neck is being sized by the bushing. To add to that part I will say that a full length sizing die that is cut to accept bushings will be the very best at maintaining zero runout, with the dies using guide sleeves a close second. The Redding comp die with the sleeve has "some" slop due to the built in clearance between the sleeve and die body, so there is chance for misalignment where a full length sizing die is in perfect alignment and always will be. A full length bushing die is your best bet, and for a small fee Jim Carstensen will even modify your existing FL die to accept neck bushings. The neck bushings are critical to control overworking of the brass, but also controling neck tension. The benifits are obvious and versatility is so much better. The only way to partially control these two factors without them in a standard die is to get rid of the expander and turn necks on your cases to get the desired neck tension without it... but this leaves the neck to expand even more when fired, looser if you will, not good but it's still worked less than using the expander ball and you know you have true necks, and even tension due to this. Still, it's only a half way solution, kind of. Like JB said, buy a Wilson seater, get your neck tension down to .001-.0015 press fit and seat bullets by hand, or arbor press, either way. If you turn your necks to true them, use a bushing FL die and seat with a Wilson inline die, you will have runout less than .001 guranteed.... now your chamber being concentric with the bore, neck concentric with the body, etc., that is up in the air with a factory rig. Making perfect ammo will help with consistancy in any event. The concentricity gauge will tell you mostly what you already know but can be handy for many things. I'd buy it last though. Use a good VLD chamfer tool. I use the K&M and prefer it because it has the adjustable stop. Jackets are never shaved after using it. I recommend the K&M neck turner with reamer mandrel for uniform neck thickness too. The RO I see after doing full prep doesn't even remotely approach .001, more like .0003 or less... 100% of the time. [/QUOTE]
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