cleaning barrel with a muzzle break

Many different techniques, but I don't mess with my brake or it's timing. Cleaning the rifle is one thing (patch and jag until clean), I don't bother with the brake until I see appreciable buildup of carbon on the MB vanes. Then I brush them with kerosene or thinner to loosen the carbon, let it "soak", and then use a toothbrush or pipe cleaner. Works well.
 
Put a zip lock bag over the brake, slide the brake into a corner of the bag, pull it tight (not super tight. Don't want to tear the bag) and secure it. I picked up a sleeve of the hair thingies (You know... the elastic ones that ladies use for putting their hair up in pony tales) and use two or three of those doubled or tripled over to keep the bag pulled tight. A zip tie or electrical tape would work too. The extra solvent needed to fill the small portion of the bag in use is minimal. I do the same when I fill my suppressor with solvent to remove carbon...
 
Last edited:
Put a zip lock bag over the brake, slide the brake into a corner of the bag and secure it. I picked up sleeve of the hair thingies (You know the ones that ladies use for putting their hair up in pony tales) and use like three of those doubled or tripled over to keep the bag pulled tight. The extra solvent needed to fill the small portion of the bag in use is minimal. I do the same when I fill my suppressor with solvent to remove carbon...
thanks awesome ideal see on a regular barrel.i just use ear plugs
 
Different designed brakes require different methods sometimes but I generally clean them at the same time I clean the bore. The solvent will disperse in the brake and do a fairly good job of cleaning it. Ported brakes are easy to finish up using Q Tips and drilled ported brake need a spray of WD 40 with the muzzle pointed down to wash out any excess solvent. then a final air blow and dry patch the bore and the brake finishes the job,

After many shooting sessions the brake may need a better cleaning and it is removed, soaked in solvent and Sonic cleaned, I then apply a small amount of anti seize to the threads and re install.
this aids in the removal later on and doesn't effect the ability to stay tight.

How ever you clean your rifle, the brake can be cleaned at the same time. No question that the brake makes cleaning more difficult but it is worth it. Clean is clean how ever you achieve it is fine.

J E CUSTOM
 
My competition rifles that see large volumes of shooting. I I will remove the brake, place it in a plastic container a bit larger the the brake and submerge it in BoreTech Carbon Remover. After a couple of hours the carbon(and copper residue can be brushed/wiped easily. My hunting rifle with far less volume are much easier to clean brake and barrel with the same cleaning solvents used to clean the bore whether the brake is removable or not. If not, small brushes and wrapped patches work nicely. The key is not to let the carbon build up heavily over time and clean the brake whenever cleaning the barrel.
 
I wrap clear packing clear around the brake a few times and then use wipeout from the muzzle. Seems to work. The wipeout dissolves most of the adhesive from the tape so it's easy to remove. The tape only needs to stick for a few seconds while the wipeout expands.
 
Many different techniques, but I don't mess with my brake or it's timing. Cleaning the rifle is one thing (patch and jag until clean), I don't bother with the brake until I see appreciable buildup of carbon on the MB vanes. Then I brush them with kerosene or thinner to loosen the carbon, let it "soak", and then use a toothbrush or pipe cleaner. Works well.
One of my rifle builders, who competes in F Class, told me the same thing: don't take the brake off.
 
Warning! This thread is more than 5 years ago old.
It's likely that no further discussion is required, in which case we recommend starting a new thread. If however you feel your response is required you can still do so.
Top